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I have had three friends buy big expensive motors from them, and another one buy all the parts and assemble two of them himself. Not one cared for the experience, in fact one of them ended up taking the Dyno'd Hemi apart and fixing it with another machine shop. They found a lot of screw ups...

Wow, that is pretty impressive!

I never cared much for the rubber ones myself, have always preferred thick cork ones.

Not good. I tried to compress Alcohol in my 451 once, it didn't work either.

Your 99 Dakota was a good looking vehicle, as was my 90, but the Germans killed the Dakota when they made it look like a "rockm-sockm" robot. Could they have intentionally made it any uglier? No insult intended to any of those owners, but I didn't like it, and the numbers would back me up.

It has always been my perception from the context of the term being used, that it was a fault in the casting process. In other words, the core was not dead on center, when the block was cast.

This is going to leave a mark. Hope your Dad's friend doesn't get screwed.

I hear ya, I pulled the slant out of a couple of them with the trans attached without any problem. That was a real hack job by someone that doesn't understand much about a uni-body.

OH Snap! At least some of the green is peaking through. Just noticed, they cut the top off of the radiator support.

Yeah, a few things look cobbled but you will get it squared away. I can't tell from post 27, is the engine compartment painted black?

Nice find Tom! You have a nack for finding cars that have had a color change, it would seem. :D

That Duster of yours is beautiful, very nice! Love the color!

I have heard of that a lot from the real old timers, even using bacon. I wonder how long that lasts. The other one, was sawdust in the rear end to make it quiet.

I guess I finally deleted all of that stuff from getting Dad's Airflow shipped. Whatever you do, do not fill out one of those forms on the internet looking for a transportation company. They will absolutely wear you out. That being said, I have done it three times now, and they all worked out.

Yeah, this is what I meant by abrasives, done it more than once. I finished it up with 400 wet and dry though. Had them come out pretty nice, but you never know how round they are, no matter how hard you try and do it evenly.

Yeah, it sure would. :toothy7:

Now that you mention it, I used muratic acid to get some siezed/swollen from corrosion pistons out of a 440 block a long time ago. Not sure you can still walk into your local hardware and buy some though. I thought I read do to the terrorist crap, they were going to pull the stuff.

Wow, I would have never thought of using a chemical to do that. Interesting approach, very interesting. I will be watching this thread. :read: I hope it works out for you. I would have been trying to pick it off, and using abrasives.

Plymouth Barracuda 1967-'69 Although reproduction body panels aren't as readily available as they are for the 1970-'74 E-body Barracuda, more and more parts are being reproduced each year. Factory-correct interiors are now available, along with other trim items, making restoration of these...

For us old farts, killer means good. :D It is kind of like "sick" to the current generation.

At the least, you will need to remove the drag link, and take the motor mounts loose to jack the motor up as far as you can. Pretty easy then, should come right out. I always used some 2x4 chunks of wood, to block it up. The only time I ever bought a killer (bronze) oil pump drive, was when I...

Yeah, the pan needs to come off. Big blocks have some really cool features, one being the external pump. 4 bolts, and it is in your hand!

That would be a big block, correct? That was almost exactly what happened to me, except I didn't lose the valve guide or any of that. I think it was a bent push rod though, and like yours, the lifter was laying in the valley. I had built a poor boy oiling system, since I couldn't afford the...

Yeah, they almost look like a large allen wrench on the last couple inches. I hope you are right and you probably are. I would still use the paint filter on the oil, and also cut the filter open. Back when I was racing, I would pull the pan off at least once a month, just to check side...

Looks like the end that goes into the pump is broken off. The pictures are fuzzy, but there should be a couple inches (IIRC) of hex part that goes into the pump. Also, the little bit that it looks like you have left, looks twisted. It should be straight. Old Kimmer comes through again...

I used to use those every time, but the last 4 motors, have gone back to a standard pump. Especially a small block in my opinion, since the oil goes to the rear main first, unlike a big block. No matter how hard I tried with HV pumps, I was always fighting getting them sealed up good. I...

I use a magnet tool, that has a handle on it. You may need to help it a little by backing it out with a long handled screw driver in the distributor slot. Sometimes they seat too hard for a magnet to pull them out of the seat without a little help. Old Kimmer may be right, it would still turn...

Good point, I have heard of that, but never seen one do it for myself.

Ok. sorry, I misunderstood the sewing machine comment. I agree, get it out of there and find out what is wrong. Parts are just too expensive to take a chance.

Still don't know exactly what motor you have, is it a magnum? Hydraulic or solids? 4 inches is a lot. I would do the normal trouble shooting procedure of starting at one problem, and working through it. I would be most concerned about the oil pressure first. Eliminate the gauge. Do you...