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Yes the 518, 618 o/d transmission's share the same 1st 2nd gear raitos as the 727.

Never did the sawp in an early a. But did do it in my ol 76 drag dart. All you really need to do is shortening the drive shaft. I also ran a reverse manual VB in both trannys it was on the column to for a month or two until I got a b&m pro stick in there. It worked but was weird! I do know under...

Looks like normal rough machining. shaving's in side the bell (if it were from internal parts) it would also have alot of fluid with it to make it outside in the bell housing.

A little softer 2nd apply. Hardly noticeable though. If running old style servo & higher line psi use both small & large dia. return springs. With just inner small spring it will cause 2-3 slight bind up because the 2nd band cannot release fast enough before front clutch applys. Even the later...

Its hard for the uneducated/unexperienced eye to look @ a used ring & pinion to tell if its going to be noisy or not. A careful study of the teeth & some gear paint may give a clue bit its still hard to tell. most will howl around 38-47 mph ir seems. 1st set of 3.23's i took a hance on,sure...

No park?!?! That's the 1st thing id diagnose,its totally mechanical!

That's why i ALLWAYS make sure i jave all gears on jack stands before i ever put it on the ground! Going to halfta totally clean everything in that trans again my friend!

Yes the the drum is basically the same except for the grove for the snap ring is cut ferther down so one more clutch & steel can be installed in there. You can have a machine shop cut out this grove the thickness of one more clutch & steel or get a used 4 disc drum.

To get the 4 on 4 clutch packs the best way is to replace both the foward & front clutch drums with 4 disc ones. Ita a lot easyer that way & they are not hard to get a hold of.

In 3rd gear the fwd clutch & front clutch are applied in the front half of the tran. back half is the direct clutch & O/D overrun roller clutch is holding. If all of a sudden when going into 3rd it locks up (by the way power flow goes) it sounds like the 2nd gear band isn't releasing. But that...

The low/rev band is on in rev & manual low (when shifter is down in 1st) it's what gives you engine breaking in manual low. See if you have engine breaking in 1st gear. If not good chance band is broke,blown servo seal or cracked piston for the low/rev band.

X2 ^

If its the clutch style SG I got 10 bucks sayen those stupid little buttons fell down in the way not letting him get the axle all the way in!

Do you have engine breaking in manual low? (1st gear) if not something is wrong with the low reverse band/servo/strut. Ive seen them break just because its Tuesday man! no warning @ all!

Very good idea,i did the same thing to my 8.75,its pipe threads so it tapers to stop from going in to far (unless you over do it taping it then yer screwed!) id also use steel plug the brass strips out to dam easy if it gets stuck in there.

If your current rear end is an 8.25 & you swap to the 9.25 only thing you may halfta do is shorten the drive shaft some to fit correctly. Or if the doner for the 9.25 is same wheel base & same drive train just bigger rear diff grab its drive shaft too & presto! cook both tires & once! If that's...

Completely normal..

Ask them about swaping in the 2.76:1 1st gear planet's. really helps get ya goen out of the hole. makes yer 3.55's seem steeper in 1st gear. ita worthy upgrade.

He has it listed in the mech parts for sale.

Im not %100 on the front cover swaping out,but most non l/u stuff dont interchange to the best of my knowlage. I know the stator support is a no go but cant remember for sure on the cover for certin. Yer talken about the bellville spring correct? not sure of why they changed styles for sure but...

Sounds like a good place to start from man!!

I think 12 is the most I've seen/put back in. All 15 would do it,all mods I've done have been based on 9-12 springs. I know my 47rh has 9 & i always favor the looser end of the spec for clutch clearance in the front clutch.i started with .100 hole in my old drag dart's 727 & ended up rite at...

I've never used one,not to say you shouldn't but havnt had issues in the past. I've also never all 15 return springs eather. I've adjusted shift timing via an orfice the restricts ammount of oil flow to the front clutch. (Similar to the .140 thou plug in the trans kits) i tap that hole for a 1/4...

I use a press & an old 9 1/4 truck pinion yoke just grind the outter ears off a little & it fits perfect in the bearing race! X2 on the o/d sun gear being pitted,havnt had one apart yet that wasn't worn.

If the steels are new on new clutches there should be no need to "rough em in" I got my super servo from pact transmission parts. There is a guy selling better total seal versions of the old style front servo (up to 1971) that also has O-ring seal in the servo cover on the rod that holds on the...

Yes you can add 2 springs to the front servo. i had to to clean up my 2-3 shift in my 47RH in my 95 12v cummins. i used the sonnax super servo & it really firmed up the 1-2 shift (didnt really need to make it firmer though! Just sold on idea of fully sealed servo) Call geroend transmissions (hes...

Earlyer 8/25 rears have that style cover. its an 8 /25 .

You WILL for sure need a noched cross shaft! I cheated & went to the grinder & ground off just enough to clear the ring gear. if you do it that way take account in for where the lock pin goes in! Grind in the wrong spot & the axle end play will be waaaay to much!

Buy good high quality gear sets! For some reason the aftermarket for 8.25 & 9.25 rears the qualiy of them is junk! (Not lapped in properly) & noisey! Ask how i know! I had 2 sets of yukon 3.55 gears sets & 1 US gear set from randys & ended up installing a salvage yard set from a dakota that were...

Sounds just like rear band is over tighten . does it go ok in 1st gear then fall rite on its face as soon as 2nd hits? If so im positve low/rev band is stuck on for some reason.