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Why would anyone spend a few hundred on a mini starter when you can get one from a yard for $10 or over the counter from the local parts store for 65 bucks, besides why would anyone still be running the stock, slow, big, bulky, POS factory starter on anything other than a 100 point resto?!?!?

Hey Dan, The only place I can think of is Action Muffler in Renton across from the airport but the guy is kind of creepy and weird and not always open. So you might want to look into the place that Ross told you about. See you Saturday! :cheers:

AAHHHHH good old Harold!

There was a set on ebay a few years ago. They look like rear dump shorty headers. I remember the ad had a comment about waiting for Harold to build them.

LOL and the last I heard was that Harold was working on fixing his "reputation" hahahahaha what a jackass!

You can buy the set of 76 360 heads that I have that are hot tanked, maged out and already welded up. :grin:

Anytime I am at a garage sale or estate sale if I find something that I may have a use for and was made in the 50's or 60's I buy it because it was built to last! Perfect example, I have an old 3 speed box fan from the 50's that I got at a garage sale for 5 bucks. It works great has a metal...

Next time you replace the rotors on your car get one side that was made in China and one side that was made in Canada and see what one craps out first! If it is load bearing, support piece or a ware part and made out of Chinese metal run the F away from it! Oh yeah and "American" Racing...

Nope, I was born in 78 and was raised in Port Orchard. We has Officer Williams, he was an asshole!

My old 73 Camaro I had a built 327 in it, headers with a pair of hollowed out glass packs bolted to them and that was it. If I got pulled over I would show the cop the "new" (fresh red paint :snakeman: ) glass pack mufflers and tell him that they were just loud mufflers.

They are right, spend the extra cash and run them out back with a H or X pipe, that way your rockers won't rot out as fast either. When someone or something is next to you the sound will bounce off that object and come back to you. It's the whole bat/sound thing in play.

If you don't seal them you will have to pull everything apart to seal them later when they do start to leak, it sucks believe me!

Same ones that are on Nikkis slant. They will fit in a 72 style K-member but if you have powere steering you will have to dent them in one spot to clear the adjuster on the steering box.

"It is about 25" long, has 2" exhaust pipe openings" http://seattle.craigslist.org/est/pts/494353156.html Im not usualy anal about NOS stuff but it is right down the hill from me and my 73 dart 4 door with a 225 is so tits on original it hurts. I wouldn't mind getting a NOS muffler for it...

Chrysler Parts On the muffler there is PN 43406 and on the box there is 3583756 anyone know what it fits?

I saw that in the new Mopar mag and was also wonderring if anyone was running it. I was thinking about useing oval pipe in my 53 pick up.

I have the AAR exhaust and they are foing on the 72 scamp so now I need some hangers. Could I use the stock AAR hangers or should I use another style...

The pipes are baffled, They come with the mounting kit in summit and it includes some rubber biscuts for the mounting to the underside of the car that will get rid of most of the vibration problems, mine on the other hand...L bracket welded to the underside of the car...DON'T DO IT THIS WAY lol...

HEHEHEHE Iv been running them for 6 years. Paied 50 bucks at a swapmeet. I have a 360 with truck exhaust manifolds. The biggest pain in the *** was making and routing the connector tube so it would clear everything. I have to use a short Wix oil filter and that gives me about 3/4 of an inch...

If I build a set of headers for a 400 that will be a daily driver with a very mild cam do I have to make all the tubes from the flange to the collector the same leighnth? This motor will not see the strip so Im not worried about getting every last drop of hp out of it.

I would use bolth the 2 nuts and some heat If you are going to take out the stud, they like to snap off. Just remember that the end studs on the smallblock heads go into water passages. I vote for the sawzall as well.

From the cowl forward I would think that it would be the same, I think that the 3 inch differance is in the main underbody section before the rear axle. That is where you may have to add the extra pipe. Anyone else?

I was just out in the garage looking at it and thought of the spacer idea, so Im going to make one and see if it works and if not......nuke it and smash it!!!

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/scamp_of_doom_73/album?.dir=/6fd3 What should I do? I need to get enough clearance so I can get rid of the gap at the bottom of the flange. I dont really want to bash the headder tube but this car is going to be a daily driver for my girlfriend so performance...