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One more thing. I'm doing the same brakes and suspension no matter what engine. The car will handle reasonably well and stop well.

I have done some 440 swaps. I don't have near $20k in any of the cars. Then again, I look for bargains and have been fortunate and been at this a long time. I build copies of the old Direct Connection k-member, but cores are getting very hard to find. I've had 440s pretty much drop in my lap as...

Crank centerline is not level. It slopes to the back, but I'm not sure how many degrees. All you need to do is look at an intake manifold, which is angled the other way so that the carb is level.

We also recently changed my son's steering over to the later due to a bad idler arm on his car. It's amazing how much more clearance there is for everything, including the passenger side head pipe (B-body HP manifolds).

Handling is not an issue. Nor is PS or AC, however due to the firewall differences putting a factory system in will pose its own set of problems. 383/4sp Now, this was a factory AC small block car, but everything fit.

There are no clearance problems if you are running 73-up steering parts. There may be clearance issues with early steering parts.

Bouchillon AC brackets, factory '69 power steering setup, factory idler/WP pulley. No problem with fitment. The Classic Auto perfect fit box, not so perfect, but I still haven't modified it. Too any other things on my plate right now.

The ad says both 383 and 440. The only way that fits both is with the head bracket I posted.

You need the three hole flat bracket. It bolts to the head and raises the pivot point. 1969-74 Mopar big block alternator mounting bolt kit with A/C HWC-746B | eBay

If it all fits you likely have a DC K-member already. The trans mount cannot fit properly on a stock small block k-member.

The length of the mounts means nothing. The ears on the block are higher on a big block relative to the crank centerline. If you have them on a stock V8 spool k-member the engine is in the wrong location.

There are two different castings for the driver side inlet. The difference is the location of the alternator bracket bolt near the thermostat.

ANY passenger car pan should work with '73-up steering link. I've got a mid-late 60s B-body baffled pan in my Barracuda with '73 steering link.

I don't have any info on the original big block K-members, only the Direct Connection.

We've been running factory big block bars (.890") with factory big block sway bar on my younger son's 440/4sp Dart convertible. On the street it is fine. It would not be fine to autocross. We even ran factory 340 torsion bars and sway bar on one big block project, an all-iron 383 with AC, auto...

Pulleys and brackets are different.

None of the pans will completely fit with the '67-72 idler without some massaging of the pan. The late steering parts fit better. I was even able to run a B-body baffled pan (no notch). with late parts.

A couple of years ago I got a Comp Big Block cam/lifter kit from Summit. Lifters were sloppy in the bore so I measured them...Ford lifters (Mopar part number on the box). Summit sent out another set of Comp lifters. Same thing, Ford diameter. They exchanged them for a set of Crane lifters that...

It's all about exhaust valve size (1.60 vs. 1.74). Any 915 can be machined to accept the 1.74" exhaust valve. The rest of the head is the same.

I like big block A-bodies, BUT I would never swap a 340 or 273 four barrel to big block.

I don't see a need. You aren't saving any weight (factory k-member is under 35 lbs) and not solving any problem.

First I would question the switch in k-members.

I've owned great handling cars (E46 330Ci convertible with sport suspension) and 2000 Miata. The handling of both of those cars appeared to be as identical as I can tell, but the weight of the BMW made it FEEL more sluggish in the corners, but it would likely have waxed the Mazda on a big road...

If your '69 big block handles like a pig you built it wrong for handling. With modern tires and shocks, added sway bar and bigger torsion bars these cars can handle well with a big block. And, quite frankly, if you don't do the same thing with the slant, it will still handle like a pig... 383/4sp

Only the 1967 driver side manifold is clocked different. '68-73 are all clocked the same. They fit, but are tight. They fit better if some material is removed from the port side. They fit well with a "B" block.

You did good...

Rebuildable big block heads are in the $150-300 range these days (some heads less than that). There was a time when 915s were highly sought after, but with the aftermarket heads out there... Only Max Wedge heads command a big price these days.

'68-73 HP manifolds work with some mods. '74-up HP maybe. I have seen the '74s in a car, but I'm not sure what was done to make them fit. As every build is different, there is a chance that your engine is too far to the left.

In what way is it a handful? Far too many of these big block conversions had nothing done to the suspension. I've put 600 miles on my son's 440/4sp Dart convertible in a weekend. It's basically got stock big block suspension (torsion bars and sway bar). It's not a handful at all. My other son's...

I ordered a Comp kit from Summit a couple of years ago for my son's 440. Mopar part # on the box, but the lifters were sloppy. Measured the diameter...Ford lifters. Summit exchanged the box with another set of Comps. Same thing...Ford lifters. Then they swapped the Comp box for a Crane box...