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Some tubular arms have adjustments in ends. The upper A-arm connects to spindle at ball joint. If the A-arm is moved in to chassis, negative camber results. If the rear of A-arm mount goes in, and front out, that rotates the A-arm slightly so the ball joint moves to the rear, creating more...

The upper a-arm adjustments, attempting to get most positive caster. Max on both sides may not be possible, because it is important the caster angles match on both sides, and camber needs met too. The unit body mount locations are not always perfect, that is why there are adjustments.

There is a delrin material with graphite in it, but you might have to make your own bushings from it.

That's nuts! :)

I now feel fortunate my car is a 66. :)

Fisher, You too focused on nipple lengths. On mammals, nipples are all over the place and vary with temperature. The guys are giving you good advice. Check wheel and box center as suggested, not limited by tie rods. Height, caster and camber all can change tie rod length relationships...

I have driven a few ISR cars aggressively. I find suspension bushings and locators wear quickly. Handling then is completely down the drain. Once that happens there is an appreciation of the simplicity, reliability,and adequate handing of leaf springs.

I have a 2014 mazda 3 with electric steering. It works well. The rack and pinion is sleak, the power motor is under dash. The first 2 min of this video shows major components on bare chassis, with comentary.

If you do not have slip plates, don't forget to roll the car and recheck measurements. Most all settings are not independent, repeat procedures. It is much about making accurate measurements.

A picture is worth 1000 words.

There is a vacuum hose that connects the brake booster to the intake manifold. It could be when the brakes are applied the booster leaks. The loss of vacuum may result in an engine stumble, and related noise. Plugging to hose for test will result in heavy brake pedal to stop, so be careful...

It is best to install the T-bars first and set ride height, then install end links. Otherwise the sway bar will mess with your ability to properly set equal height. If car is on level ground, and height is correct, end links should be balanced, and easily hook up.

Del, I found this article that explains caster relations in detail.http://www.motoiq.com/MagazineArticles/ID/1982/PageID/3203/The-Ultimate-Handling-Guide-Part-8-Understanding-Your-Caster-King-Pin-Inclination-and-Scrub.aspx It is necessary to down a few pages, then it gets to the scrub radius...

The wider tires might decrease mpg, but will help with handling. If the b-body rear is wider, it might disrupt the handling. Going 6+ on caster and larger tires, will also add load to steering, so perhaps consider the pump mods or Firm Feel box later. Add Mood strut bushings, and LCA bushings...

It is also important that the LCA front nut is fully tightened, only after the correct height is set and wheels on the ground. Otherwise a preload twist on the bushing will lead to early failure.

Toe out, and negative camber?

First make sure the upper a-arm, and strut bushings are good. Also set t-bar height. The adjustments will be done at the excentrics on the upper a-arm. A square to the wheel using a couple spacers to get past the tire bulge to check 0 camber on level surface. Typically turn front excentric to...

I recently had things apart on my 66 Barracuda, and pulled the power box to change seals. At the time the heads, starter and exhaust was off. I was able to get it out with gravity my side. With sore shoulders, I gave up trying to get it back in. I did like Scuba, and pulled tbar. And went...

I just happened to have picture today of the strut mount. The bushings shown are the Moog Problem fixer. They install in two rubber pieces, front and rear side of K-frame, the OEM mount is often one piece and is hard to get in. The Torsion bars need to be pulled out to get enough rearward...

More than 40 years ago I took my Dodge to get an alignment done by well recommend shop. He had the best equipment at the time, yet did the toe-in in a simple way. He jacked each front wheel off the ground, and marked the center with chalk, then used a sharp scribe to make a fine track, at the...

About 25 years ago I installed an ADCO bar on my early Barracuda. My car had one lower control arm tab, and a second was fabricated and welded on. I tossed the ADCO mounts, fabricated new mounts and installed new poly bushings and end links. At the same time, went to larger 340 T-Bars. I...

If bias is present the end links can be shimmed by adding a sleeve spacer, or making one shorter. When connecting links you will discover if they need to be shimmed for balance. For certain conditions bias is desirable, if in the correct manner. I would think a rear bar could be shimmed for...

Best to read section 2-3 of the factory service manual found at MyMopar.com

A full tank of gas will drop the rear.

I just replaced the one on my input shaft. It was dripping down the box and off the output shaft. To pull the seal, I drilled a 1/16" hole in the outer metal, then screwed in a drywall screw about two turns. A pliers was used to jerk the seal out by the screw head. A crack was found in the...

To get more caster you want to move the upper ball joint to the rear. This is done by adjusting the upper front eccentric, for out, and the rear eccentric for in. Then move the rear eccentric out enough to set the camber. I use zero camber, because the more negative results in less caster...

double post

One of the most important parts is as adjustments are made, roll the car to get the tires to settle to the new wheel position. Then measure again. It takes a bit of fiddling, but when done right, they handle excellent. Make sure to tighten parts to specification, if loose they will change!

Lower control arm should be square to frame rail. Might be that caster is set unequal. Might check if the passenger front upper A-arm eccentric is full in instead of full out. To get maximum caster, typically set full out on front A-arm, then out, on the rear A-arm for correct camber. If car...

What about the top mount, and spring clearance in upper a-arm? Are you replacing torsion bars? Do you understand roll rate? I think it is a bad idea.