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I'm going to go talk to the machine shop this week and see if this could be a viable option.

Trying to build a 408 and can't seem to get anything going. My block has been at the machine shop for 1 month and so far nothing has been done. I stopped in 2 weeks ago and asked about the progress, and nothing. They blamed this on Scat and said that Scat wasn't responding. 2 weeks later I...

Good thinking.

I would just try the highest they have at the pump. If it works, back off to the next lower. Do this until it doesn't work anymore. Definitely rejet the carb first.

I run a good solid 10:1(and change) with iron heads on 85 and have no problems. I'd like to hear some real numbers fro the guys at lower elevations. I'm at 5k feet and have never had so much as a knock or ping. Well, they are 650 pounds each so it only takes three to make a ton.

There's a lot to be said about the cool factor of a blown engine.

Those brackets are supposed to have a hole in them for that raised nub(?) on the mount to sit in so they don't twist like that. At this point I'd be a little more concerned about the rear transmission mount because that is probably in two pieces now. It may have been like that for quite some...

Hard telling. Here's a price list from a local machine shop. http://www.gamracingengines.com/gam_price_sheet_2015.pdf

I'm contemplating a 360 just for the piston availability.

In my opinion. Compression was reduced in 72 and to get a kit with those pistons would have taken some doing. I'm trying to pull this from memory so if not 100% accurate, forgive me. Federal laws say that if the rebuild is advertised as "OEM" for 72 it must comply with "OEM" 72 specs. That would...

For the same money I would certainly hope that whoever rebuilt it rebuilt it to 71specs. But to tell without pulling a head?? I don't know of anything that will guarantee any real accuracy.

I thought I did alright too. It started in a thread where someone was asking what the cost was to sleeve a cylinder. I said $400 bucks and was told I got ripped off. Apparently they didn't take everything else into account that's required for the job. With the tank comes the plugs and bearings...

I think it is. I had a 340 sleeved for that and the price included one sleeve, boring and honing the sleeve to match, labor, hot tank, cam bearings and core plugs for that same $400, and people told me that I got ripped off.

To answer the question, yes it does show that. The question is where numbers came from. It doesn't really matter either way. In a stoplight to stoplight car or truck you'll never really reach the point where you need the extra CFM, so opting for the smaller combustion chamber is the direction...

I think that myth is as old as the moth balls in your gas tank myth.

My book says 56 to 65. Probably closer to the 65 side.

If you're at zero deck with a .039 head gasket and a 64cc chamber you're a little closer to 10:1 if not even more.

I doubt it, but it's cheap enough to try.

There should be a date code on the other side of the block. If it's the stock manifold there may be a date code there too.

I don't think it matters. 84 HP at 2600 is just that, regardless of gear.

I've done that. A lot of people walk right by that one. The good news is that it's something you'll only do once.

Just arrange the heads so the extra water port is on the back. They won't be used back there. That keeps them out of the mix in the first place. If you're talking about the port that goes to the intake manifold that is.

Your first statement is correct. There's two TDCs On the firing stroke TDC you should have play in both push rods. On the exhaust TDC you should have play on the intake push rod only.

Do you have the right headers? What are they? There's really no way the mounts can interfere. Not that A-Body headers are a joy to put in to begin with.

You're fine. The water passages on the heads are just there because the heads are symmetrical.

I do. (sometimes)

The date code looks to be around 78. Near as I can make it out. Probably a 360. Those manifolds did quite well when compared do aftermarket performance manifolds. Better than some, worse than others but good manifolds nonetheless. As for the crack??? It's probably fine if it even is a crack. I...

I didn't really research all that well but it appears Autozone is giving a $35.00 gift card for every hundred dollars of purchase price on ship to home orders. That's a lot of money when you're talking a set of heads...

What year 340?

Those factory manifolds held their own quite well when tested against the aftermarket manifolds. Unless you're stuck on having aluminum. It also limits your carb choices since the stock manifold was spreadbore only.