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Yup, probably a bad throw out bearing.

I used to run 140 weight in my 4spd. but it`s quite warm around here.

This is all I had to cut using the Keisler Tremec TKO-600. You can see that there`s not that much of a difference in the shape of the tunnel only the positioning of the shifter. In my case I did not use the metal that Keisler supplied to finish the tunnel but made up an abbreviated version which...

pp=trans assembly plant (New Process) 833=type 4 spd. 2855=sequential # of that days production After `68 the last 8 digits of the VIN will appear on the pad after the numbers above. HTH.

I used a Lakewood but it has two different areas to mount the torque shaft. After Shumacher headers and torque shaft interference issues I finally scrapped it altogether and went to a hydraulic clutch. I`ve heard of some people having to install the torque shaft somewhat canted to get it to fit.

Use a non-petroleum based grease like lithium and grease the ball joints leaving a little reserve in the torque shaft tube.

I`m sure that`s a major factor when determining what transmission to use. Remember though ,you can spend as much money piecing together a system as you could buying a kit that`s all inclusive. In addition you`ll probably spend less time and heartache doing so.

I`ve got Keisler`s TKO-600 in my 68 Barracuda. I`m not sure what it entails to put a 5 speed behind a small block. I imagine there are several choices that one could make fit with a little background in fabrication work. I wanted a kit that required little fabrication and no guess work, that`s...

You guys are talking "terms" here, in essence a shifter is a pivot and is going to have a "throw" on both ends of the pivot. If you shorten the distance from either end to the pivot you have decreased the "throw" and increased the force it takes to move it.

I`ve got a Keisler TKO-600 kit in my 500 c.i. Barracuda. The kit went in without much ado and works great. I give it hell on a regular basis and so far so good. It`s a shame that you only hear about the cases that go bad and not the majority of the cases that go well. No business could ever be...

I had one in my Challenger that was about 8 inches high. It may have been the Super Shifter as BigSlim pictured earlier. That was the best shifting car, I could bang gears in that car like no other. In A-bodies a straight shifter never seems to be oriented correctly to be that ergonomic.

I can`t tell you about that particular hydraulic clutch but I did install the Keisler hyd. clutch in my Barracuda. I mounted the master cylinder to the lower drivers side bolt of my brakes master cylinder. I had to remove the overhead spring on the clutch pedal. The slave cylinder mounts by...

I had an aluminum cased, 18 spline, A-body, 4 spd. from Herb McCandless that was slick-shifted. Although it was one bad-*** transmission, I heard the same thing the guys are saying here, that the trans would not be street friendly. If you want to drive the car on the street then find a good...

That`s a neat piece. It`s been a while since I dealt with an original shifter but aren`t they a "push in" fit shifter and not bolt in?

There`s another alternative to the factory console shifter but equally as rare. Hurst made a Competition Plus shifter that had an acute angle allowing it to be used with a console. I had one in my 68 Barracuda but sold it when I went to another trans. Here it is installed:

I`m running a Spec clutch now with a hydraulic TO bearing. You might check them out. Their entry level clutch will work with up to 480 ft.lbs. of torque.

I used the Centerforce dual friction before I installed the OD trans, good stuff.

One of the many books I have on the subject. I can really appreciate guys who go to the extreme at recreating cars as they left the factory, but I could never do it myself. That`s a great site. There`s a lot of info on the web if you do enough searches. Good luck with your build, show us...

PP= New Process assembly plant 833= type of transmission 8769= sequential# of that days production, should match block There should be an 8 digit number set (that matches a partial VIN) if the trans is from `68 or later.

The 71-340 4spd. trans may have the code 757 in yellow, light blue, or light green paint. A white cross may also be found on the housing, an inspectors mark. HTH

I`ve always seen the trans natural.? Brewers Performance is the 4 spd. headquarters.

No spring here.

There was a guy on Ebay that made a fiberglass side cover. I`ll see if I can find his signature and pass it along.

I think I`ve seen a place that reproduces those. PG Classic maybe?

I`ve got one on my bb Barracuda with Tremec 5 spd. , no problems here. Just make sure your bellhousing is aligned within specs and you should be trouble free.

When I had the 4spd. in my car I ran straight 140w, but the summers here in SE Va. can be brutal. It always shifted smooth even in winter.

I`m running TTI 2" chassis headers on my 440 and had to go with the hydraulic clutch. I tried the headers with the factory big block clutch hardware and had issues with interference. My throw out bearing, MC, and slave cylinder were all supplied by Keisler Engineering. Although the clutch pedal...

Yeah, should be an 18 spline. I once owned a 69 Bee with the 440-6 ,4spd., Dana 60, and it was equipped with the 18 spline transmission. I think cars with the track pack were equipped with the 18 spline trans. and I know of people that had the 440, 4spd. cars with the Danas and they were 18 spline.

Yeah , not pretty but definitely utilitarian.

I found a simple, cheap, and effective way to make a torque strap for most any application. I found this 1/4" stainless steel cable at the local bolt/hardware store and two clamps. About $4.00 for the three pieces. This stuff is strong and you can put it right where you need it. Here`s a pic....