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I've ordered a k1 crank and molnar rods from them in the past and had good experience with them Scat I beams no clearance issues. Molnar rods you will need to notch the bottom of the bores.Both are good rods.

Be very careful with that kevko pickup becomes mine was warped badly.Mine was so bad I could see it.I bolted it gently to the oil pump and it couldn't be turned.I had machine shop surface it.

Are the small mopar bare heads a pair or each?

Great. Thanks

I'm looking at the oil feed holes to the rocker arms and they seem small.They are around 1/8" in diameter.Has anyone running these had any issues or drilled them bigger? Thanks

I was thinking that as I just help a guy disassemble a solid roller w2 engine and it didn't have any plugs under the cam plate.There wasn't and oil restrictions either.The main and rod bearings looked good but there was some lifters replaced at some point.

Thanks for everyone's advice. Are you guy's drilling and tapping the front and back to 1/2" npt?

Thanks

I like the sandpaper roll idea. Thanks

I took a old lifter to the bench grinder and rounded it.That seemed to work ok but yes it's still tight with a new lifter.I thought a brake hone may give enough clearance but not sure if that's the right way to go about it.

Yeah all those kits are apparently discontinued.I'm using solid lifters so don't need any oil to the lifters plus that's 16 leaks.My machinist has done this in the past but he insisted I do the work because he's busy.I also drill,tap and install a plug under the number one main feed to the left...

Well I'm actually installing a copper tube in the right side oil galley to restrict oil.I'm not sure if this tool from Hughes would work in place of the peening tool.Thanks for the offer I may take you up on it.

What are you guy's using for a peening tool since there not available from mopar?Has anyone used the hughes burnishing ball instead for peening the tube?

Nice score on the crank.

They are nice stuff for sure. I have one of there cranks and rods in use since 2018 and very happy with them.My machinist has nothing but good things to say about them. I actually have a set of small block rods on order standard size that should be shipped by the end of month.

It should be good now.

Pm me.

This is all good info. Did you dyno or make it to the track yet with your combo? That's alot of work in the intake and valley pan.

Thanks I'll check into that.

What exactly would be needed to install victor heads?Pushrod tubes moved?

Thanks for the info everyone.I heard about the front cover but not that the cam cores are totally different. Brett is fairly local to me but I never met him.I think he uses harshmans dyno and he's five minutes from me. This block feels like it weights twice as much as a production block.

I recently pick up a r3 block part number p4876671 which is a 9.20 deck,48 degree,four bolt 340 main siamese.This is new a still in the pallet from mopar.I don't know a lot about these so looking for any information would be great.Are 48 degree w9 heads still available or are there something...

I ran them years ago with no problems in a stock bottom end 340.Car would go 11.59 best.

You should definitely donate this.The kids will remember it forever.

I really didn't want to drill a hole either but now have no regrets.The car sounded better as soon as I started it.Its amazing what a great header can do.Its probably because I sent them to jet hot lol.