Search results for query: *

I had a 245 suregrip unit a couple of months ago and ended up selling it to a member here for 85.00 $ that included shipping. They are out there. Bob

If I'm not mistaken they are 27 spline ,some one else care to jump in here and correct me if I'm wrong Bob

Do a search on my post from last week , I basically have the the same thing as you do I went from a slant six /904 to 360/904- 8 3/4 rear ,lots of good info there. My original shaft worked just fine other than U-joints. Bob

I totally agree, thats why I said to re-check that rear end you got under that thing, Unless you are pushing more than 400 ponies a 8 1/4 would be just fine. If you were closer I just pulled out a 8 1/4 out of our Duster and swapped in a 8 3/4. I even have a sure grip to go with it Bob

I would check your rear end again ,ours came stock with the 225 but came with an 8 1/4 rear end and also the bigger torsion bars Kinda like Ma Mopar was going to put a V-8 in it and at the last minute stuck a slant . Bob

Hey Supershafts, you are right on the money . Took the Duster to my drive line guy here and all he had to do was put on the bigger u-joint on the rear, my yoke in the front was the long one and he said no problem at all with that. He did put a new ujoint in front since we had it out and a quick...

Ok guys, rear end is in, no problems there at all, I figured I would use my brake lines from the 8 1/4 but no they wont work because where the tee bolts in to the diff is a different spot,about 3 " over. That makes one side about 3 " short and the other 3 " long. Any ideas ? I seen one guy used...

Has anyone had to lengthen their drive shaft, I just put the new rear end in and under full load with the jack stands under the 8 3/4 rear end I can push the drive shaft all the way in until it bottoms out in the trans and then I can pull it back about 1 1/2 inches until it rest in the yoke of...

I got the Por- 15 through a place called West Coast Coatings in Northern Ca. If you cant find them on the internet let me know and I'll pm you the info when I get back to work on Monday. Bob

Hey Fishy, That's probably was the case, the Napa I went to only showed one set and that's the one I got. Bob

Well I picked up the parts from Napa and it was all correct, got it all home and was comparing the new shoes to the old ones. I actually have more meat on the old shoes than I do on the new ones. I think I'm gonna stick with the old ones and just scuff them up a little . I couldn't believe how...

Hey John. As you can see this an upgraded rear end, it was out of a c-body and it does have the bigger brake system on it Bob

Joe, I checked with my local Napa, they had all in stock so I ordered them and will pick them up on my way home from work. Hopefully every thing works out. Ill post back and let you know Thanks again , Bob

O C, Sutton shortened the housing ,checked out the 355 suregrip and installed , shorten and resplined the axles , supplied new perches and welded.New bearings also They charged me 700.00 $ . It took about 3 weeks, Its a busy place Bob

Thanks, Ill check Napa out Bob

Hey Joe, Cool, that would help. Bob

The shoes measured out 2 inches across so I dont know what this rear end came out of. We picked it up at Junk yard in Pomona Ca. Bob

Ok. I went on Oreilly's home page and did a search and came up with a 1966 Dodge Polara that took 11x 2 shoes,does that sound right ? I beleive my drums are still good so I would just be getting new shoes and hardware. Bob

Yea, its got the 11 inch backing plates and drums but not sure what year and model will fit. Bob

We picked it up yesterday from Suttons Engineering in La habra and after a fresh coat of Por-15 its ready for brakes but Im not quite sure what to get for it. Can anybody tell me what year and model took 11 x 2 brake shoes. thanks, Bob / Bryce

If you dont mind me asking what did they get for shortening it ?

I havent measured mine yet to even see how long mine is,I guess I will do that first and see. Bob

So looking at the chart,if my 8 1/4 is 11.69 and the 8 3/4 is 12.35 than my drive shaft would have to be shortened roughly .66 inches or between 5/8-3/4 of an inch. That measurement came up a lot when I was doing the search. thanks guys, Bob

Crackedback, Is that center to center between the ujoints ? Thanks for replying so quickly Bob

Ok Guys , Here goes I have done a search on this forumn and have gotten so many different opinions that its really confusing. This is what I have : 1973 Duster, 8 1/4 rear end, 904 trans, 360 engine I am putting in a 8 3/4 rear end, 741 casing. Is there too many variables in this...

Cracked back, any luck finding one of those in your stuff, Thanks, Bob

Hey crackedback , sending you a pm

The title says it all, I am looking for a dipstick for the duster 904 trans ,i have tube ,top of dipstick broke off, Bob

It was rubbing on the top side of the idler arm so that means I would have had to bend the tabs down,I tried doing that but could not get the hole to line up without re-drilling and did not want to enlarge the hole. Raising the trans a little did not change the angle enough to hurt anything. Bob

Hey 73Abodee, Those dimensions you gave me were right on the money,my spacer plate worked perect and did the trick. the idler arm now has a good 1/4 inch clearance. thanks again, Bob