is this driveshaft sitting exactly where its suppose to?

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myasylum

myasylum

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Sorry for the bad picture, but this is with the driveshaft attached to the rear yoke, and the picture is how much the yoke is pulled out from the transmission. It reads pretty much exactly an inch. The thing that I question is that is reading it from the rubber seal. If I don't include the seal it's more like an inch and a half. Should I have it shortened a 1/2 inch, or good right where it's at?
Also this is a slant six driveshaft. Is there a reason why the driveshaft tappers toward the rear yoke? Wouldn't it be stronger the same width all the way across?

Thanks!
 

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You're right. That's a really suckin *** picture.
 
I need to get photoshop again, doing this in Paint sucks!
I suppose this isn't really any better?
 

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I would disconnect it at the rear then bottom it out in the trans and make a magic marker line right at the seal. Then install it and measure from the seal to the mark. If it's a inch or so you probably good. If more or less you may have to make a adjustment in length.......That's just the way i do it.
 
So I have to try to measure it as if the seal isn't there? Then it would be an 1 1/2 inches?
 
myasylum said:
So I have to try to measure it as if the seal isn't there? Then it would be an 1 1/2 inches?
Click to expand...

No, you just need to use the same reference point for both measurements. If the bottomed out mark on the yoke is at the seal then measure from the seal to the mark when it's installed. Don't worry we'll get through this.:)
 
Not to confuse you, but the second, installed measurement, has to be with the wheels on the ground or at least the rear housing on jack stands. The installed, 2nd measurment has to be at ride height.
 
Hmm... A problum That seems to be occurring is that the yoke doesn't actully seem to "bottom out". The seal stops it before it actually bottoms out.
This is still the 904 /6 yoke I am using. are they possibly shorter?
 
Jack the caqr up at the rear, put stands under the rear, unbolt the shaft and measure exactly how long the slip yokes bearing surface is and then put it back in and measure the amount you can see from the seal back and then subtract that from the total length of the bearing surface and let me know how much is in the trans.

Many factory yokes are longer than 6", so having 2" out is nothing to worry about.

.
 
myasylum said:
Hmm... A problum That seems to be occurring is that the yoke doesn't actully seem to "bottom out". The seal stops it before it actually bottoms out.
This is still the 904 /6 yoke I am using. are they possibly shorter?
Click to expand...

That i don't know, i never had slant shaft. If you post the length of the machined part of your yoke maybe some other members can chime in and we could find out if there is a difference. Now i'm stumped....lol.

If it's not bottoming then your original pictures would definetely be out far enough.....

Lets see who posts and what they have to say?
 
I was told by a driveline shop that you should have 3/4 of an inch slack at ride height out of the seal. If your yoke can bottom out, I suppose 3/4 from bottom is correct. That just ensures that you have maximum yoke to spline contact. I have 2 inches out at ride height now, but my yoke is like 8 inches long. The driveshaft is pro-welded and balanced so I dont want to alter it. If it wobbles, I got another thats 1 inch longer but its not post weld balanced...
 
pishta said:
I was told by a driveline shop that you should have 3/4 of an inch slack at ride height out of the seal. If your yoke can bottom out, I suppose 3/4 from bottom is correct. That just ensures that you have maximum yoke to spline contact. I have 2 inches out at ride height now, but my yoke is like 8 inches long. The driveshaft is pro-welded and balanced so I dont want to alter it. If it wobbles, I got another thats 1 inch longer but its not post weld balanced...
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I've never had one i couldn't bottom out, which he says his wont. Just didn't occur to me that he may not have enough spline engagement.
Hope he measures and lets us know the length.
 
Ok... i'm not real sure where to measure this thing? but I got about 7 1/2". The output shaft seems to stick out about 3/4" past the transfer case but the seal covers over that.
 

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Supershafts said:
Jack the caqr up at the rear, put stands under the rear, unbolt the shaft and measure exactly how long the slip yokes bearing surface is and then put it back in and measure the amount you can see from the seal back and then subtract that from the total length of the bearing surface and let me know how much is in the trans.

Many factory yokes are longer than 6", so having 2" out is nothing to worry about.

.
Click to expand...
Have you done this yet? Guessing you are in the process of it by your last post. Just measure the shiny area, that is where it slides on....or the bearing surface as mentioned above....
 
I was doing some reading a 7" seems to be right size from center of u joint to center of shaft.
It must be right at bottoming out... I'd think? The seal just don't compress any further and there was about 1/4" of seal left.
 
Do a search on my post from last week , I basically have the the same thing as you do I went from a slant six /904 to 360/904- 8 3/4 rear ,lots of good info there. My original shaft worked just fine other than U-joints.


Bob
 
Well, I talked to a driveshaft place today, and they were discussing building me a new Heavy Duty shaft for $250.00, and make sure everything was correct. I drove down there today and he looked at the shaft and realized it was not rusted or pitted as he expected. He said that all I needed was u-joints and I'd be ready to go. Of Course he was pushing solid Neapco (sp?) instead of Spicer because that is what they so happen to sell there.

I just find it odd that a drive shaft that was meant for a /6 car with a 8 1/4" rear end, would fit a 360 904 tranny with a 8 3/4 so perfectly.
 
the neapco is cheaper and they make more profit selling neapco over the spicer.

The length of the drive line between a 904 in a slant vs a 904 in a V is the same, the trans are in the same places so it shouldn't be much different.

Next time you're there ask them why they push neapco, neapco is charging them the same price they always have and are now using china joints which can be bought at $2 a piece thru a canadian dist...
If they haven't noticed that id be nervous


Or they're getting them thru the china connection in canada and selling them as neapco
 
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