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You had a ground issue. Ground is usually an issue that most overlook. Good solid grounds are a must.

A bad install can make any manufactures Ignition prematurely fail or not work as it should. Most ignition failures are triggered by a Hack job install plain and simple. I have used MSD Products for a very long time. Never have I had an issue at all. My current set up is MDS Billet Dizzy "Was...

Yeah some dumb *** might ground the welder to their electronic ignition module, their transmission, engine block or drive shaft? Those guys don't belong under a welding hood! I don't know anyone who has messed up their electrical system by grounding to the chassis when welding on the chassis...

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Glad you got it fixed! I figured it was a fluke and it seem's as if it was. The welding had nothing to do with the problem.

Lol. Most are just WAY to sensitive to be on an open forum like this I guess.....The information is useful to those that are willing to listen...... If you are working on the chassis it don't matter where you ground the chassis is my point. Grounding the welder to the rear of the chassis &...

Lol, WTF would ground their welder to the transmission or their engine block??.... haaaa When I said what I said I meant to the CHASSIS...... Lol I have welded up more stuff than most anyone on this site has ever taken on. I have NEVER had any issues at all..... You guys are way too funny...

Ground is Ground. It don't matter where it was at.

I don't believe the welding has anything to do with it. Muffler shops weld on cars and NEVER even disconnect the battery. You have a sperratic issue that is un related. I would look at the distributor as the culprit. I didn't catch which one you have but the MSD dizzy's are pretty prone for...

No.... A BFH!

Do you have the engine grounded good?

Be sure wiring is correct....Battery needs charging.

Yup, figured it was. Glad you got it fixed!

He says he can jump it at the starter so it sounds like the battery has juice & connected properly.

Sounds like your neutral safety is not right. You can disconnect the dark brown wire connector at the starter relay, make up a short wire and ground that lug from the starter relay to the starter relay mounting bolt to bypass the neutral safety. If it turns over with the key, you found your...

That was me in Post #15...... Lol Glad you got it fixed you did a lot of work and testing..... Damn you are a trooper and a calm one at that!

Did you make sure that Headlamp/Test Lamp works "Lights Up" when hooked up to + & - , before doing the testing?

I learned me something today! Good stuff.

Haaa, Damn. Acid on the face is not good. And I thought I was Ugly! Lol

Sounds like the Alternator has a Dead Short in it. Damn, you guys almost burned his car to the ground! ..... Lol, just messing! I had a battery in one of my old little pick ups that popped out of the battery hold down and the + side hit the hood and grounded.... Burnt my whole harness all the...

Amp Meter Bypass means means you actually Bypass and do not use the Amp Meter at all. In your case you are still running power through it. Easy way to bypass it is to put both wires on 1 Lug. You can then run your Alt wire to the Starter Relay, Starter or straight to the battery, your choice...

Wow. Don't you have Eddy Ported Heads? Mine pulls hard easily to 6800 Rpm crisp and clean too, does not miss a beat. 410 CI Pump Gas 9:1 Compression, Iron Headed RHS by Brian at IMM with Solid Roller Cam spec'd by Brian. .634 Lift at the valve and small 242@50 Duration. Sounds like a very...

The start retard is a cool feature as long as it fires right off at the flick of the key, if it doesn't I would take some retard out of that feature until it does with the engine HOT. That engine should idle around 1000 RPM or so. Your engine is going to like more Initial timing than 19* , I...

Heat will not affect the 3 step rev control under the hood, nor a 3 step retard nor an MSD Ignition Box. I know because all of mine are mounted there! Heck I welded my forward strut bars to the upper shock tower and it bubbled the paint under all of them but it did not hurt the electronics one...

Timing first then start messing with the carb........ and in that order only! Done any other way you will chase your tail.

It does not matter what wire goes on. You can cross them up. Only one you can't cross up is the BAT charge wire! Lol

Check the gap at the pickup. If it is over .080 that could most likely be your problem.

I've been out of the know for awhile now but I use to be into car audio big time. ZAPCO was the **** for power back in my day with parametric equilazation. Very expensive but nothing could touch it even the Fosgate guys ran for the hills. 2 Zapco system 200's would still put the hurting on most...

Lol, I was just messin with you. The flip off emogiee is laughing @ you if you missed it. Build your car how you want. On Yellowbullet you really would get your *** chewed up and spit out..... This site there are a bunch of sissy's that get their panties in a wad over nothing. Lead, follow or...

Ditto…. :finga: to the OP