Search results for query: *

I had to send mine back. They did not work out with the Solid Bushings. Could not get them sandwiched in the mount on the K Frame. I bought RMS Instead.

They cut the snout off and weld in a new one.

Seems like a lot to go wrong with those SPC Uppers. Lots of parts there.

Just ordered mine with the solid bushings!

Yes they look good. I am up for a set also but with the solid bushings. I will order today!

It must be Friday and Beer 30...... Think he has had more than a few!! Lol

Cool car, a lot of work going on. I see you changed seats to the low backs. What seats are the high backs?

Motor mount.

Seriously though. Just about any tool in your box will assist you in getting the sending unit out. When putting it back on I always put a thin kiss of White Lithium Grease on the both sides of the Gasket so when you put it back on the gasket don't move around and it seals the first time with no...

Only way to do it!! haaaa , Air Chisel right?? haaa

If the Cage is already in the car it should not take more than 2 Hours to weld it all off. Putting the cage in the car is a whole different story.

If you were close I would weld it all up for a couple taco's!:D

Are you talking just the welding after the Cage is tacked in is that much?

I always use some White Lithium Grease on the filler neck seal and on the Sending Unit Gasket. Every time I have tried to install them Dry, they leak...... Also You don't want to use silicone on anything to do with Fuel.

Member, Rocker'sduster has a restored set that are beautiful for sale right now caps and all. He is in California.

Nice Job! Nobody will ever notice.

Looks like fresh paint too! Be sure to take your time! How about notching the Radiator instead? You could find someone to weld it back up for Probably $40.00. Cut the pieces for the patch's and bring them to a shop that can weld aluminum.

Shoot it will only take 2 hours max to have the complete engine and trans on the ground...........ohhhh you are in Minnesota, I bet it is really cold there. Nevermind!

Right on! Glad to see it on the ground. Looks old school bitchen too! Hopefully mine will be on the ground this week also.

Cool Rob knows his chitttt! I was gunna recommend you talk with him! I tried once to drill out for bigger bolts etc on the car, that flippin metal is VERY hard. Try to have it done before it all goes together. You WILL need a drill press for sure! On my new chunk I have the U Bolts on it 7290 U...

Oh so you just checked it then, got it! So your driveline/tailshaft of the trans is down about 4* also? Are you running leafs and a pinion snubber?

I told you it would pick up with the pinion angle fixed! 4.30's, spool and 28" Slicks you will be hittin 10.85's!

Looks good, you should clean up the amp wires a bit though, unless you already did. I was an installer for years when I was a younger chap! Run the Power and ground wires away from the speaker wires and the RCA Cables when you do it. Less chance of interference that way.

I just had mine done at Sutton. Shortened the housing 3.75" on each side. Axles Shortened and Re Splined, New Green Bearings, and 3" Studs installed. Total Price was $480.00 Here is the link to pics etc. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=101437&page=12

Scott, here is the thread I think you are talking about! http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=52294

Two words.............. DOGGGGGG DISHHHHHH

Good thing you didn't buy them. I did and they are CRAP used that were cut out of another car. Holes don't line up POShittttttttt. Guy said he would take them back I would have to pay for shipping......I told him that I will do the next guy a favor that he was going to sell them to and THROW...