Search results for query: *

I did a little more digging on what I used before as well as putting my cluster back together this morning. The terminals I used before were Deutsch size 12 contacts designed for 0.093" pins. They worked really nicely because they have a small spring inside them, so they slip over fairly...

For what it's worth, at least in pictures the Molex stuff isn't even really remotely "original", but based on the design I think they will work okay. The original ones almost remind me more of the typical barrel type connector you can get at any hardware store (the kind with red/blue/yellow...

Okay, did a little more digging and found some threads that reference Molex 0.093 connectors as well. Looks like I can get a set from Amazon cheap enough to try them at least. Will check out Connector World as well, thanks!

I know this thread is pretty old by now, but that name sounds familiar. I redid my whole interior harness and remember buying some Molex terminals for the steering column connector. I don't think they were an exact copy of what came out, but they were very similar, enough so that they work...

Does anyone happen to know what barrel terminals are used on the instrument cluster connector for A bodies? Several years ago I rebuilt my entire interior harness from scratch using a scrap harness I got from work. I wanted modern wires with good insulation and new terminals on everything to...

So an interesting note as I've been doing some trial and error with the dash pins, a Deutsch has a barrel socket that fits over them perfectly with a nice spring fit that holds them nice and snug. I think they are a size 12. They look something like this...

That button can be a pain too sometime. Some switches it's pretty straightforward, others you might have to jiggle the button and the push in and out on the knob to get to to finally pop free.

No worries, I should have phrased it better. Worst case I'll just plug them in as individual terminals. Wouldn't be the end of the world, just a little more finicky.

No, I need the connector at the switch in the dash with 7 pins or something like that. Those are the connectors at the headlights themselves in that link.

So just to confirm, headlight connector bodies aren't available anywhere besides a junkyard? One of the terminal holes in mine is completely melted out and the wire is hanging loose. I replaced the headlight switch a while back and was aware of this at the time and have since added a relay...

Okay. I was thinking I might try using the Molex pins in the factory connectors just to see if they would work. The factory connectors aren't really even built for retention in my opinion, they seem to be more there just to align the pins. Basically just looks like a tapered hole with an open...

Are the Amp sockets the factory ones or something else?

Ah, that's a nice substitution. I didn't think about those. I've built computers for years and am used to seeing them on power connectors. That would probably be just about right.

Okay. I do have a de-pinning tool for Deutsche connectors I believe that can probably do the same function. Essentially just a narrow flat head screwdriver. And I actually have flat in-line connectors on my dash panel as opposed to a round one, but I imagine they use the same style pins...

Yeah, I've been tempted to just bring both of the factory dash connectors into one single modern one so that I'd have a pigtail that would come out with the cluster when I remove it. I might be able to just get a standard barrel/bullet style terminal and close it up until it fits around the...

Okay, that's more or less what I was thinking and know about Del City pretty well. I'll have to try to pull a few plugs apart and double check what they look like. Any ideas on the instrument panel terminals by any chance? I know they are a barrel style as they attach to pins, but haven't...

So I've already yanked my entire engine bay and have rewired it using a scrap harness I got from work with a new modern style bulkhead connector. I'm now looking at the interior and thinking about doing the same thing as I still have a big box of wire left over. The wire I have is really nice...

I got lucky and got a scrap warranty harness from work that melted one plug. The rest of it was good and had some nice Deutsch 24 pin bulkhead style plugs. Ended up rewiring the entire engine bay with stuff I pulled from the scrap harness. Nice solid pins with a twist lock weatherproof...

While it's not the most amazing piece of equipment I've ever seen, I got a digital oscilloscope for Christmas that has turned out pretty handy. It's one of those tools that when you need it, you need it, there's not really a substitute. Thing is about the size of a cellphone. Menus can be a...

That's pretty cool. Reminds me a lot of the Megasquirt setup and the Stim board they offer. I know you've already put in lots of work to your own parts, but I've seen other people use the Stim board as a standalone signal generator for other purposes. It's built with the Megasquirt in mind...

I did essentially what you're talking about I believe. I basically ran parallel charge wires from the alternator to the batter. One was a direct line from the alt to the battery, the other was the stock wiring that went from the alt to the ammeter and through to the battery. I drilled a hole...

I know that most probably don't lean this way with classic cars, but my 67 Dart has turned into a rolling test bed of sorts and I was curious what else others out there had done. The whole project started with a 5.7 Hemi swap with a carb innocently enough, but 3 years later I now have full...

I don't have a picture handy, but I bought a spacer that you put under the thermostat housing that has two 3/8" NPT fittings in it. You'd have to plug one, but the gauge can go in the other with the right thread size fittings. On my 318 it cleared the thermostat okay, but it was a pretty close...