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It's better off in someone else's hands.

I could be wrong but I highly doubt it, that's more of an American thing. Europe doesn't have a massive corn industrial complex lobbying the government like we do lmao

How much do you want to keep running a slant-6? The 225 is inherently inefficient by design with the super-long stroke and heavy rotating assembly. If I was to ever intentionally own a slant it would be the 170 variant. I think that would be the best bang-for-buck move in search for MPG and...

My guess is he's using one of the high-zinc oils which are usually thicker. But I agree, you want to use the thinnest oil that still gives at least 15 psi oil pressure at hot idle. Might try some 10W-30 or 10W-40.

There was a series on the PowerNation shows where Newcomer Racing built a 600+ HP stroked and turbo (or maybe centrifugal-blown?) Jeep 4.0L. Lots of trick stuff but just goes to show what you can do with that platform. Slant 6..... ehhh idk that tiny bore is a power killer and the ports need...

@75slant6 runs an AX-15 5-speed manual in his Duster behind a mild 360 Magnum and he likes it, the ratios go better with taller rear axle gears though (deep 1st, not very tall 5th) I think he's running 3.23s or 2.94s (?) They do have a pretty wide spread between gears especially 2nd-3rd but...

I think in the video Tony explains the reason actually is to change the geometry; with the pin offset the other way the piston has slightly less dwell time at TDC which helps torque and responsiveness at lower RPMs, according to him anyway I've never tried it myself. What all this has me...

I watched that video yesterday, confirmed my reservations about messing with the slant-6... head ports/valves too small, severely undersquare/tiny bore, heavy rotating assembly. I liked what he said regarding the 170ci version, if I did own a slant-6 car at some point it would be an early A...

Found it, I was wrong looks like it'll be pretty much a clean-sheet design even the Fiat 4-bangers are too "big"... There’s a Tornado coming: the new inline six

If you read the original article from Allpar.com they're saying it will most likely be more similar to one of the current Fiat 4-bangers with 2 cylinders added than anything else. And you can all bet it's going to have 4 valves per cylinder, overhead cams, plastic intake yadda yadda, you can't...

Exactly, you're in Los Angeles which is basically sea level... have you tried driving up a 6% grade at 7000' above sea level in said slant-6 car? Or even try to pass someone at 75 mph on flat ground at 5000' above sea level? Ask anyone who's moved to Colorado from another state they'll agree...

There are probably 20 times more people building hopped-up and stroked Jeep/AMC 4.0L sixes than the Chrysler slant-6, partly because it was in production for much longer but it's also a superior design IMO especially the H.O. variant like I have in my Jeep. AMC didn't have the same strict...

That's awesome, they definitely had a great engine there. I feel the same way that's kind of why I'm not a huge slant fan. Owning a Jeep 4.0L it's just superior in almost every way except size and maybe weight...? A boosted 4.0L would be really scary in a 4x4 XJ Cherokee though it doesn't...

That coating gets scraped off the first time the brakes are used but I've found it's pretty resilient otherwise, as long as it's a quality piece. They shouldn't rust unless they have been used but even so I think just a bit of wd-40 every now and then would keep the rust away. Rotors are kind...

Sounds awesome, where did you find the spindles? Also if you intend to use a factory brakes setup you can buy a pair of rotors for a late 70s B-body off RockAuto, they are the bigger 11.75" diam. ones and you only need the correct caliper brackets to make it all work.

Is the head different too? I got a 1999-up ram-tuned intake manifold for my 4.0 as an upgrade for about $125 shipped off eBay. From what I've read the HO heads are also much better than the Renix, if it were mine I'd just swap the whole top end. You are looking for power right? Lol :glasses7:

Hey just wanted to get back to you on the cam stuff, prob too late but FYI... the stock HO cam from '91-6 is like 270* adv. duration but a measly 197* at .050" and maybe .420" lift. Bumping up to even just 210* at .050" and .460-ish lift would be a huge improvement. Check out JeepStrokers.com...

Have you run cammed 4.0's before? I haven't which is why i'm asking but the stock cam is very small i want to try a voodoo or crane cam in mine after a rebuild. These would really wake up with more lift and a tad more duration along with a tuned full-length 6-2 header. Just add bored throttle...

The obd1 jeep FI is "semi" adaptive, it uses the first 50 start/run cycles after being connected to battery power to adjust the A/F ratio in closed-loop mode. I have a '93 Cherokee with all the bolt-on mods and 3.55 gears on like 30" tires at most. I can feel the engine runs lean when the...

I agree with what's being said here but there is an episode where one of the guys builds a 451 stroker big-block Mopar and throughout the show he definitely seems to know what he's doing and you can tell he is actually interested in the build not just throwing stuff together and selling parts...

You guys are babbling about displacement issues being the limiting factor... It's not really displacement overall but the fact that all /6's have a tiny 3.4" bore which severely limits breathing when combined with the massive 4.125" stroke of the 225. If Chrysler ever made an oversquare inline...

I personally think trying to upgrade a N/A slant 6 is kind of a waste but if you got a turbo... that's a whole 'nother story lol! I would love to build a turbo /6 someday but I think before that I will rebuild my old 318 into a 550 HP turbo monster since it's sitting in my garage.

Your oil pressure is certainly on the low end of acceptable, but still acceptable... Go ahead and drive the car but pay attention to the oil pressure when idling hot. Next oil change put in some thicker oil like 15W-50 along with a high quality filter, I don't think 10W-40 will make much of a...

First things first, if you haven't already give it a tune-up with new plugs, wires, cap, and rotor, check that the carb is working well (no leaks, smooth linkage), check the ignition timing advance, and finally set the valve lash. After you know it's running its best you can try getting a more...

Uhh, if those are two 5.7L Hemi heads, why, oh WHY is there only one spark plug per cylinder?

So is your setup a "suck-through" carb setup? How well does it work? Does the carb need as much work done to it as a blow-through style? I was wondering about another thing, what about adapting the Jeep/AMC I-6 EFI setup to a turbo /6? Anybody think it would work?

That's a good point, forgot about your aluminum block. If it really is aluminum then you run the risk of blowing it up with a little too much power.

Either add some forced induction (blower or turbo) or swap in a V8 if you want any real power. Slant 6's need quite a bit of work to make fast, chief among them being a ported head. Headers, a Hyper-Pac intake, and a good-sized 2-bbl. carb would wake it up though for now.

You could install a resonator after the muffler in the exhaust system.

I thought the 318 in my Duster was spinning awfully fast at 75 MPH but when I hooked up a tach it was only spinning around 2600 RPM, and that's with a 2.76:1 rear end. Funny too, my redline was around 3500 RPM (hopefully a rebuild/hot-rod tricks will cure that).