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I'm old enough that plug cleaning was a acceptable way to buy time on engines that were getting towards the ''end of life''. I personally ran a few newer plugs through blast cleaners that had fouled because of a bad tune, but at some point oil fouling needs to be addressed in the mechanical sense.

It certainly shouldn't happen with the ported hookup. there's no vac available at that port.......Unless your idle speed is way higher then normal?

That sounds like "poop" to me Tyler. What set are you looking at? I'm sure there must be a stock type 7mm or a decent 8mm set available in black for a reasonable price that will work for you.

Welcome to FABO, from a former Capitol Raceway participant :D. Sadly, I'm not a "computer controlled" guy, but I hope someone here can give you some guidance.

Your getting way faster then me Del in our old age...lol.

Give some details on the car itself.....year, model, etc. A lot of guys here can help narrow it down with more info. Sound like a wiring issue of some type for sure? Maybe near the battery? Could even be a bulkhead connector problem since everything shutdown.

I think with your engine, cam, and carb size, I'd run the vac adv for now. Just remember, from a economy standpoint, your right foot will be a better friend then any can hanging on the dizzy. :D

I did away with the vacuum advance on any engines that produced less then 12/13 in of vacuum out of gear. I may or may not have left some economy on the table, but once the engines got larger "performance" cams, a performance dizzy was usually included in the build and very few in my day even...

What a difference, nice job. Now, just move the shift pointer to 7500 and you'll have it whipped :D.

Nice :thumleft:. I was gonna suggest a heat gun, but you got her done.

I've never had a "II" Rob, so I don't know exactly what they look like compared to the originals. I thought most bezels were crimped, but I'm not sure. I did find this, but you may have already seen it....... http://www.jalopyjournal.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-297171.html

:thumleft:

PM member Greg, "Trailbeast". He has a setup that should work with your stock electronic dizzy as I recall. I know the members that have used it were very satisfied.

It does suck, but it sound like some progress. I know you can't wait to enjoy the car.....Soon hopefully.

Well, since this need to be a "noninvasive" procedure until after the move, I see two choices......... 1) Put a few more miles on it and hope it clears up? Not likely, and that possible noise worries me a little. 2) Get your hands on a borescope, maybe the shop has one?, and drop that piston...

Take care of this first, please..... I understand your concern and it does sound like you may have lost that cylinder by way of a gasket or, worse, aligned rings or something broken. I'll throw in some thoughts when appropriate, but with the warranty, even though questionable, you need to take...

Been a long, long time since I was under a steering wheel. If I remember correctly, there was small amount of what looked like white lithium on the sliding area of the plastic on some factory installed switches. I suppose dielectric grease would be preferred today if it's needed. I'll have to...

I checked the specs and that's not a large cam at all. They recommend 901's, a single spring, but even fresh stock spring should not cause a float issue. I'm no dist/ignition expert at all, other then I know adv. curves, i'm from the point dizzy days, but I still think it could be ign related...

If that's what you've used successfully in the past with your timing and advance curve, I have to think there's another issue in the ignition system. What rpm's does it seem to start acting up? If it's in the very high r's, say 5000/6000, it could be the valve springs getting weak. I'm not ready...

This question will open up a can of worms here....LOL. But if your breaking up at high r's under wide open throttle, there's no vacuum to the advance can either way, so that's not causing your issue.

I had a idea also that the idle circuit could be too rich or lean on decel, so i reread the thread and saw that Bill had made mention of it. You may try some minor tweaks to the mixture screws and see if anything changes? Easy enough to try. I have my way of adjusting them on 2 corner...

The more i look at this, i may be off base here. My thinking was that it's unburned fuel making it's way to the exhaust. With the vac. adv. hooked to ported vac. you lose that advance as soon as the throttle is closed and then the mixture is burned later in the cycle allowing it to be closer to...

Hey Tom. Not sure if your still with the car this evening, but try and hook the vac. adv. hose to manifold vac. You'll have to lower the idle back down afterwards and i'd reset the idle mixture screws also. Give it a test drive and see how she is. I have a theory on this, but don't have time...

I assume it's been this way since you installed it. Being older and possibly a more inexpensive one, make sure there's not a little dip switch on the back that has to be set to the proper number of cylinders.......4,6,8.

I love this, mainly cause i'm old enough and don't have a current ride. I've run mallory and Accel dual points along with the stock single points that i used HD points in. Along with a good aftermarket coil. Turned 6500 rpm's with all of them, but they did need regular maintenance/replacement...

Thanks Tommy, glad to rule that out.

I always like to go back to what was recently touched/modified, so i'd want to double check the wiring, especially the coil, and distributor. The Street master is a single plane iirc. Hard to figure why one side plugs would be wet. I could see front half (primary) or rear half (secondary) if a...

Progress is good:D. Maybe a little more fine tuning to come. Let us know after the ride......

The cam may have been installed a little advanced, but don't complain about those readings. Once you're all tuned up you'll probably be able to lower the idle speed a little and that may drop the vac a inch or two.