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Yikes!

For Sale: 1969 Dodge Dart in Canton, Ohio Not sure if this link works? A 340 Swinger 4spd for sale at Classic Cars in Canton Oh. Has the D49 code

Love to know what the rest of the tag looks like? 2 or 4 door car...engine size...manual or auto? Some type of fleet vehicle maybe. The net isn't much help, but i'd love to know

I believe wood grain also. Brewer's has them listed for 68' A bodies with the Hurst shifter. There may have been some inland shifters used in early 68' with a different ball, but I don't know if that it applies to the A body cars? Goodmark lists them for mid 68' and 69' applications on A&B...

Especially with a "Muncie" shifter...lol. Why GM used that junk in any performance car is mind boggling to me. :banghead: With that said, too many times the trans is blamed on poor shifting. The 833, M21/M22, ST10, and Ford top loaders, were all fine transmissions. A Hurst shifter was a...

I'm still learning the some of the trans numbers, but I think the "2366" indicates a build date of Jan, 19 1968 on the main housing...

Don't forget the pedal assist spring may have to be addressed with the diaphragm style cover/plate.

There is a photo in this link Bill... http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/interior/mopp_0202_chrysler_four_speed_pedal_assemblies/photo_03.html

If your overall pedal pressure seems lighter then before, it's likely you installed a "diaphragm" style pressure plate. Nothing wrong with that, but the spring removal should cure your issue. There's some drama in this thread :D, but it may help you understand what we're talking about...

As mentioned above, If you replaced this... With this... And if you have a assist/override spring on your pedal, that's most likely the problem.

Look it over well for all the numbers you can find. Maybe look for numbers on a pad.....similar to this?

Exactly. You nailed it. Even though I've never done it, the diaphragm style causes issues with that spring.....

Get some rest......it'll be there tomorrow. Probably a simple issue, you'll get it. :thumleft:

I saw on the net that some Ferd guys had issues with the throwout bearing needing to be different then stock. Did you get yours with the clutch kit or is it from another source? I know it's a wild guess, but I thought is was worth posting.

Is this just a removal, rebuild and replace. Or is it a new installation? I'd first look at anything that was changed if it was a existing combo. It does sound like a shifter problem at first glance. I hope it's not a internal issue. Sorry, slow typing. You got in ahead of me with more...

I did a quick check and didn't find those exact numbers......Maybe give Brewer's a call with all your info.... http://www.brewersperformance.com/

@6000 rpm.....1st (3.09) to 2nd (1.67) takes it to 3243 rpm. Quite a drop! Better have a wide torque curve on your engine if your looking for performance over mileage. http://www.wallaceracing.com/RPM%20Drop%20From%20Shift%20Calculator.php

Good luck with your build when you get started. I admire you trying to go manual, would be very cool. I have a feeling if you meet your power goals along with the associated torque that goes with it, you'll have to go big on the trans. I nosed around a little and it will likely take a big part...

You may check out a few other sites where guys are running that kind of power..........like Hemi power:D. And yes, Clukey's car is awsome... Steve Clukey's Wheelstanding Small Block Duster - YouTube

Bare with me and i'll try to explain my conclusion...... YearOne's kit says it fits A & B bodies......Hurst install kit for B bodies is #3734089............No A listed anymore at hurst..........The reverse lever listed for that kit is #1052445...

Did you reuse the levers from the other trans? This is a Hurst install kit (although for a "B" body, only pic i could find). Notice it comes with 2 reverse levers. The one with the rod hole closer to the pivot will give more lever movement with the same rod movement...........just a thought.

The last Comp+ shifter i installed was in a A body Ch**y years ago, but seems to me there were numbers on the side plate of the mechanism. Not sure if they could even be looked up now days? Without knowing the specifics of what it's for, probably not worth alot. Especially if you need a side...

Hi Jim, first off i have to come clean that all the Mopars i've owned were automatics and all my 3/4 spd. experience was with GM products..........i know:violent1:. Mike has a good idea to try and that sounds right to me since that style plate requires less pedal pressure. However if you still...

Just a thought, did you happen to use a diaphragm style pressure plate instead of a lever style? If the radial spring on the plate gets over centered (over disengaged) it can hang up. Remedy would be to add freeplay at the top or limit pedal travel at the floor. Pic of diaphragm and lever style...

Couldn't have said it any better.

I've had M21's and 1 - ST10 in some GM builds and they never failed me, at least up to a 12 flat car. I liked the close ratio M21 because of the 2.20 first gear, only about a 500 rpm drop between gears. With that said, the cost of a good one and the adapter would seem cost prohibitive to me. I'd...