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I used Hot Hues Hot Rod black single stage urethane but I don't think they make it anymore. Any single stage satin black would work, I'm sure somebody is still making it.

There's quite a lot to it. Go to Autobody101.com and start reading

I prefer gloss but I've seen some nice satin jobs and I would think they have their own complications. With gloss you can color sand out any OP and dust then buff back. I don't think polishing flat/satin works out, would end up shiny wouldn't it, or at least shinier than you want it?

That's very interesting and good to know, I painted an older Camaro a while back and it was laquer, thermal set laquer apparently. Interesting that the different companies used different paints.

Even if you had the exact same paint, which I think may be laquer (you can take some laquer thinner and rub a bit under your rocker or other discreet area to see if any color comes off) you would never be able to match the color fade. If you're not down to bare metal you won't need primer, just...

POR 15 is designed to go on rusty surfaces not shiney metal or epoxy primer. I don't think many people get that. All I ever use it for is those tough to get at bits of rust, never as an actual paint.

The stuff I use is called Pro Form, if I recall correctly, comes in brush on or in a caulk tube, but I'm just north of the border from you so you may not be able to get it. Pretty sure most products you would get from a pain jobber are pretty good and you can always ask them, my guys are very...

I went to a painting seminar a while back after they had switched over to water borne and low VOC paints. This was specifically for the low VOC paints that many of the pros were having a tough time adjusting to, the rep was using the super nova and was freaky close to the panel but moving very...

I also have the PPS system and it rocks, plus you may be able to save a few bucks by not getting the cup with the gun unless it doesn't come with one anyway? Seem to recall I saved $80 or so doing that.

I have the Iwata LPH400, the one that preceeded the Super Nova, basically the same gun without the Star Trek looks, love it! I have a Sata RP as well and it's a nice gun too but the Iwata is my choice.

depends on your floor pan, I replaced mine so it's fresh metal, no point in using a rust converter so paint and a dynamat like product after, but if you have the standard surface rust issues, POR 15 or Chassis Saver.

I have the same problem with my RAM and I've tried everything, first scraping with a plastic trim tool, then any of the aforementioned ideas. I do manage to eventually get the blob off but it leaves a discolored mark in the paint every time. Fortunately the paint isn't that great to start with.

Looks great. Reminds me we need to stop at the cobble stone pub one of these days :drinkers:

stick with the epoxy primer, it has zinc in it for rust prevention, etch doesn't and living where you do and driving it in just primer you need that.

and actually very impractical for that reason. Looks fantastic but very difficult to spray as you're building color with every coat so you have to walk the car, can't shoot it by panel or partial panel. If you get into a fender bender forget about being able to match the paint, if you use a true...

There's a value shade chart you can refer to, lighter colors use lighter color primers. You're probably in the middle to darker primer I would think.

So just out of curiousity why aren't you painting the bay body color? I always say Mopars are the only ones that got that right. I just painted the bay of my 65 Mustang body color, looks so much better than it did flat black.

I don't know about the rustoleum version but I doubt it's much different than the type I use. You need a good respirator and a well ventilated area, underneath your car isn't typically well ventilated, breathing that stuff is not a good plan. Read the tech sheet on it before you keel over and...

That's what I use too, the undercoating catches fire pretty easy and being under a car with a torch is awkward, unless it's on a hoist. Exactly, I'm in the process of doing this as well and will be spraying epoxy primer followed by SS flat paint, no POR unless it's in tough to get to areas.

Cool shop pic, what's that Daimler doing in there?

I always liked the plum crazy color and while they may be multiplying on this site we don't all live together in one little town :D I don't see all that many Dusters where I am let alone several of the same color.

I use the 3M PPS, you use a typical gravity feed gun and the system uses liners with no air vent so you can spray upside down without any problems.

I've heard of this stuff before and always wondered about how you would clamp it? More often than not you can't get clamps on the panel so you would have to drill holes and use screws. Now you have holes that should be welded up, does the adhesive hold up while you have extreme heat from welding...

Yeah you need to use a schutz gun, they're cheap and work quite well. I assume part of the reason you get such a textured look is the way the gun literally spits the stuff out.

ok cool :thumbup:

It can never be too straight, I would still shoot a few coats of high build primer, guide coat and block. I do that process at least a couple times, usually more. If you lay down a super slick paint job, color sand and buff you will see every minor imperfection and it won't look all that minor...

Just 2 quick points, epoxy primer as said before and just so you know it's either etch or epoxy, never both. The other is why are you using a DA? fine for removal of paint but if you're trying to get the panel straight it's all long board and elbow grease :D

There's a few different types of trim removal tools, haven't taken any trim off a Duster before but have for a few other cars. This is the tool I use, you slide it under the trim until you get to a clip and then with a little pull the clip turns and releases. This is assuming the clip is...

I have a vinyl top car too, the sail panel area where they have a seam looks really bad on mine but nothing that can't be fixed one way or another.

Just a note on POR15, many seem to think it prevents rust, it does not, it converts/neutralizes exsiting rust, does nothing for bare metal. I would paint it like the rest of the car if you're not crazy about the vinyl, and the roof is good enough that you don't need to hide flaws with the vinyl.