Should I just go ahead with a full repaint?

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72moparswinger

72moparswinger

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Hey guys, So my vinyl top is coming off due to rust at the roof seem and it shrank in the other corner, so with the top off and all the glass out should I just repaint the car while I'm at it? I really do not want to spend much as i pretty much lost my job (have not worked for 3 weeks) but I need this top redone for the rust that started before I bought it.

Also what can be used to seal the metal under the vinyl from rust?
 
If you weren't already planning to repaint the car, AND you intend to install a new vinyl top, then I would consider them two separate jobs. You can remove the top trim, and tape off the new top when repaint time comes.

If you are replacing the top, I might consider using POR15 after totally grinding away all rust, redoing the lead seams, and replacing any perforated metal. I'm not sure how well the adhesive will stick to POR15, though. Hopefully those more knowledgable will chime in. If that's not feasible, I'd say use Rust Mort on the prepared bare metal per directions, then prime and paint.

Disclaimer - I've not done this myself. I'm just passing on stuff I've learned from great people here (AdamR, among others) and elsewhere as I research for my own car.

Edit: Almost forgot, but if you are not going with a new vinyl top, then yeah, paint the car. I'd think if that were the case, you wouldn't be asking, though.
 
Just a note on POR15, many seem to think it prevents rust, it does not, it converts/neutralizes exsiting rust, does nothing for bare metal. I would paint it like the rest of the car if you're not crazy about the vinyl, and the roof is good enough that you don't need to hide flaws with the vinyl.
 
Rob said:
Just a note on POR15, many seem to think it prevents rust, it does not, it converts/neutralizes exsiting rust, does nothing for bare metal...
Click to expand...

I'm really good about buying a product, THEN researching it to find out it wasn't good for the intended application. Thanks for the info!
 
Thanks for the tips as this is my first vinyl top car, me being eager to find out what was under a section of the top, took a box knife and cut a square out at the seem what the bubbling is the bondo cracking and lifting from the rust, definately needs to come off now I have an idea what is happening. Sounds like I can prep and paint the roof without worrying about seeing a seem as its covered by the top, then put the glue down along with the top over the new paint.
 
I have a vinyl top car too, the sail panel area where they have a seam looks really bad on mine but nothing that can't be fixed one way or another.

DSC00198.jpg
 
Mines not that bad but has a definate line like yours, were the seem is.
Are there any tricks to popping off that stainless trim around the rear and front window?
I just scored a original front windsheild for 25 bucks might as well replace it if its coming out, got a nasty crack on it when it was coming home on the trailer.
 
There's a few different types of trim removal tools, haven't taken any trim off a Duster before but have for a few other cars. This is the tool I use, you slide it under the trim until you get to a clip and then with a little pull the clip turns and releases. This is assuming the clip is rectangular and as I mentioned I don't know what type of clips the Duster uses so you'll need someone to chime in.

http://www.toolsource.com/window-molding-remover-ford-p-71095.html?osCsid=qe2s1p89a08938asq233pslba6
 
Many swear by POR-15, but pricey ($40/qt). It degrades in sunlight so top-coat for when your new vinyl gets cracks. I have used Rust Destroyer, which is half the price. It claims to convert rust, etch shiny steel, and good to 800 F. Used to be at Ace, but I had to go to a paint shop to find quarts last time. Also comes in a spray can.

If you do any repair with Bondo or fiberglass, prime the metal first. I understand that water can wick thru them to attack bare metal. I suspect many Bondo patches fail because people apply it to bare metal. I bet weld repairs are almost as bad if all bare metal isn't painted, including the backside of patches.
 
Thanks for all the tips, I like the idea of shooting primer then bondo over then put another layer of primer to seal the bondo. Did the factory use body filler or lead at the roof seems? There was bondo on both sides, the original owners said they replaced the top but I doubt they got rid of any rust issues.
 
would it be fine to do the fill with bondo? like the previous owners did but do as what someone said by shooting the metal with primer first then layer bondo over the seems then more primer over the top on the bondo to seal it? Cause the top will go on and cover up any imperfections.
 
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