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Why would Scarebird keep you from aftermarket wheels? Most aftermarkets are at least 15", which should fit Scarebird. I think there are even some guys with 14" Cragars and stock wheels on them. Edit: I see you are looking at keystone classics. I couldn't say if they'd fit or not.

Subcom is right on about the Scarebird parts. All readily available; Rockauto being a good place to start. Oddly enough, some of the parts can even be found on Amazon as well.

True, if you buy the package it gets darn close to the OP's $500 price-point. I did a little legwork and sourced the parts myself and am probably in it for around $300. Just throwin' out another option, is all. Didn't think the OP was being strict about the 'mopar only' thing since he was...

The Scarebird conversion is both inexpensive and 'new'. The used factory conversion is a good candidate as others have mentioned, but Scarebird might be worth some investigation.

I just replaced that rear hose a few days ago. I can't say for sure that the old one was the original, but it was OLD. There was not a crush washer on the old hose at the tee and the new hose did not come with one either. I tightened it down without adding a new washer. I've poked my head under...

Amen to that. It's funny when you give them the part number and you can tell they are still REALLY itching to put the car make & model into the computer. :D

Rockauto.com is a great source for parts. Can't guarantee they have every single part you need....but it's generally a more enjoyable experience than trying to explain to the 19yr old girl behind the parts counter at your local Autozone (Oreilly, etc. etc.) what you need. I've found a decent...

Uhhh..huh huh.

Thanks again.

Confirmed: strut is sitting on the e-brake lever, similar to the 'before' pic.

OldmanRick: here is a photo of the 'before': Although the angle of my 'after' photo doesn't show it clearly, it seems as if there are two plates (the strut bar rests on the 'inner' while the return cable attaches to the 'outer'). Does that sound right? I will still take another peak just to...

Hmm, I think I see what you're talking about. It didn't catch my eye while inspecting the set-up, but in the photo it almost looks like it isn't seated properly.

The green one?

Indeed. It is much appreciated. I thought I followed the FSM to a 'tee' so this had me scratching my head. Looked back through the entire 'brakes' section in the FSM and didn't see one reference to it. Just went out and looked underneath: yep - I see the line you are talking about. Looks like...

Ahh! Will have to take a look at that. Thank you.

Wheel turned freely after install. Dumb question perhaps, but aren't the adjusters 'self adjusting'? I'm full of dumb questions :D Didn't notice any serious grooves on the backing plates. There was still grease on the 'contact points'. I'll have to check the parking brake again, but I didn't...

Might have to check again, but I think it was a hard line directly into the backing plate and wheel cylinder?

Not long ago, I noticed a burning smell after getting home from running errands (40 minutes of stop-and-go city driving). Followed my nose to the rear driver-side wheel. Touched the wheel and it was hotter than hell! A few months back I had re-done the rear drums (both sides) and hadn't...

Not sure if it matters, but when I did my 9" drums there were no pins (push rods?). As StrokerScamp mentioned, the shoe frame jutted out in this area and served the purpose.

I'm not aware of anything specific to A-bodies, but I believe there are several Youtube videos of guys changing out their drum brakes. For the most part it's all going to be the same - at least the general process. If you can get hold of a FSM, it will give you some of the specifics. I think...

Just FYI: for those who are stocking up on the conversion parts, be aware that Scarebird is currently out of the 9" brackets. I just put in an order a couple days ago and received a notice that it might be 2 weeks before it's ready. I don't know if this applies to the 10" bracket or not. I'm in...

Agreed. Pretty affordable at RockAuto.

Sweet baby Jesus! That b$&*tch put up a fight! Thanks again to all those who chimed in with assistance. I tried: 1. Detaching the brake line to relieve pressure on the wheel cylinder. No luck. Probably a valid approach, just didn't work for me this time. 2. Drilling a hole in the drum, but...

Thanks for the picture badsport. It looks like maybe that top bolt/pin that the springs attach to might what's keeping me from taking everything off at once. Ran out of time today, but I will see if I can get better access to the adjuster now that I can pull the drum out a little more from the...

Thanks for all the great feedback, guys. Had a small amount of time to work on it this morning. Star wheel still wasn't going to budge. Let a few expletives fly why swinging the hammer at it. So I got the grinder out and cut off the two little pins in the back. That seemed to really free it...

Well I gave it another good soaking of PB Blaster this evening and I'll let it sit overnight. I've got a little time tomorrow morning so I guess I'll give it another shot then. Stupid little star wheel. ](*,) Assuming it loosens up a little bit, which direction do I need to be spinning it to...

Thanks Lawrence, I did get the drum slightly off the backing plate (big hammer + swearing), but if I peek behind the drum while pulling I can see the shoes starting to come out with the drum. Since my knowledge of them is somewhat limited I didn't know if I continued to yank on the drum if I...

Rear passenger drum brake (9") is stuck. Trying to get the drum off but having a hell of a time. I got it loose from the backing plate, so it appears it's the shoes keeping it in place. Per the FSM I took two little screwdrivers through the access hole on the back in order to loosen/release the...