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I run them with very mild port & chamber work & larger valves on my 318 w/ an XE268 which isnt that big, but you don't call out your cam specs. I'm very pleased with the combo.

And affordable.

Can the seller of the J Heads provide you any flow numbers? I'm usually in favor of the newer technology as 40 year old cast iron heads never seem like the most effective use of my dollar(seriously, 40 years ago Jiffy Pop Popcorn was cutting edge!!), but if they flow better than OOTB Eddys (& I...

Sorry to hear about that but glad your back on the road. I'd love to upgrade my ignition but it's stories like this one that keep the orange box under my hood.

If someone does pick them up I'd be interested what it ends up running to set them up properly. I'm hoping my estimate of $500-$600 is realistic.

$800 bare seems like a good deal if prepping them ran in the $500-$600 range it would seem they would be a decent deal.

Sounds like a pretty big mismatch with the 2bbl & exhaust manifolds. Your choked off coming in as well as coming out.

I run the same cam in my 318 & Evildart runs it as well in his 340 6 pack. Nice noticeable tone & I'm very happy when I hit the loud pedal.

Pistons on my 318 we down .070", I went with the 302 heads & .028" gaskets as well.

Guys into numbers matching on their TA/AAR's will probably pay a premium. With patience you can probably get enough to buy a set of well performing heads.

Dial indicator, piston stop, degree template & coat hanger as mentioned above. No better feeling than knowing it's right.

This

This is too smart for most. Kudos DFX

I think we really need to open up a poll on this one, Bomber. It's too close to call.

That should compliment your car nicely, Brian. I'm still blown away on the header deal!

Mild to moderate 318 is a mismatch with a single plane manifold. Already lacking in the low end & the single plane will exacerbate the problem. Stay small runner, dual plane. (edelbrock RPM). Cant help you on the piston slap, I'm sure someone here can tho.

Didn't TRW become Speed Pro a while back?

Does the bottom end need a rebuild? If so, this would be the time to up the compression, zero deck & new pistons will make for a nice upgrade. If the bottom end is still solid, just go with a good valve job, comp xe256 cam or equivalent, double roller chain, eddy performer intake & a 600-ish...

Sounds like you've hit all the basics. If timing & idle mixture (make sure to adjust under load) are optimum & you're sure there are no Vac leaks, you may need to go up a fuel shooter size. what is the initial & total timing? How much vac are you pulling? what carb & what size shooter?

Great point 3xR

Looks like they were sold, but here's the link for reference. http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=249929&highlight=rockers

I believe there is set for sale on here somewhere if I remember correctly.

Less deflection on a solid adjustable rocker over the stamped stock style. You will get a true-er lift. You may or may not notice the difference, but I believe that to be the main difference. If you are running solid lifters, the adjustable are probably preferred to set your lash. With Hydraulic...

Yes, short answer is you have too much case pressure. Run the PCV & a breather.

x3 on 16* initial 34* total

break in oil!

To see if Dizzy is off, bump it to TDC & pull the dizzy cap & tell us where the rotor points. Should point to the front intake bolt on the driver's side.

$5.00 on ECU or related ground.

Lol!!! most of us Michael, most. :burnout:

Only have seat of the pants dyno, but im comfortable saying its approx 300hp. Power all the way to 5k then im done. Current 2.76 leave me lacking but 3.23 sure grip sits in my garage. Im very happy but like most here, never content.