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I have a car that does something like this. The bushing in the tail shaft of the trans is shot. Jack the car up support it nicely put it in neutral. Then grab the shaft and see if it wiggles at all. Make sure its in neutral and the parking brake is off otherwise your driveshaft might have a load...

I think you gotta hold one axle solid while you spin the pinion. So maybe you have a better ratio then you think.

Rockauto isn't always worth it for one item. Could be $15 on rock auto but then cost 8 dollars shipping. rockauto is by far the cheapest not considering shipping. I say go with the napa it probably has a 1 year warranty or something.

If you like to gamble the 7 1/4 is the perfect rear end. Plenty of better options out there though. 8.8 is great if you don't care about having a ford part. 8 1/4s came in lots of stuff, so non a body ones are around. If you got something the right width or close it wouldn't cost much to...

ax15 v8 bellhousing hemi flywheel clutch disc: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/add-716105?seid=srese1&gclid=CNSatKSG0LYCFccw4AodcUMAFw ax15 hydrolics would probably work but there are other options. hemi pressure plate Custom pilot bushing Hemi starter. The r154 input shaft is a...

Also FWIW some gear oils already have limited slip modifier in it.

71 scamper: toyota r154, dakota ax15 bellhousing. :wink: http://www.celicasupra.com/forums/showthread.php?65106-R154-motor-compatibility

I've heard of them snapping/twisting axles in street cars. maybe something big and strong and you would be okay but I think you would twist or snap a 7 1/4 axle.

Just a heads up, Gear oil smells terrible.

In your situation I wouldn't even consider a 8 3/4 or ford 8.8. overkill for what you want to do. rebuilding the 7 1/4 would be the easy way out, it fits already and it's in there already. The 8 1/4 would be a nice upgrade though. That jeep rear might be worth it for $50 if it has all the...

Don't waste your time cleaning that rear, scrap it. Looks like a 7 1/4.

If its an open when you turn the yolk one side should spin forwards and one should go backwards. DONT EVER, use a wrench or impact to turn the nut on the yolk to turn the rear. You could tighten that nut more than it is meant to and result in bearing failure. (ask me how i know):banghead:

I think it would be a good idea. I mean if somehow they all managed to come off your axle could fall out. $1.25 for some lock washers is cheap insurance.

The toy 8" is a great rear, even their 7.5 is better than the mopar 7.5 imho. its like a mini 8 3/4 and have you ever seen the wheel bearings? they are massive! The 8.8 is not a bad rear either though for the price.

I agree. around me you can pick one up with a limited slip diff, disc brakes and 3.73 or 4.10 gears for about $250. Can't really beat that price. Thank god for ford exploders.:cheers:

X2 my dad had this happen recently. really bad vibration that got worse then could not go over 30 because it was so bad. tire lost a few cords internally and got egg shaped in one spot. if this is not the case, i would think it has to be something pretty major to make a bad vibration at...

weld it or use JB weld or Yamabond, obviously clean the surface well to promote adhesion.

From what I have read most autos are not drilled for the manual pilot bushing. A simple solution is to use one for a magnum crank. That was my plan when i do the swap this winter. I unfortunately don't have the part number. I think you might also have to cut the end of the input shaft too.

http://www.therangerstation.com/tech_library/Explorer8_8.html Ranger 8.8 56-1/2 inches (1990-1992) 58-1/2 inches (1993-2009)

I wouldn't go any higher than 3.55 unless you had an overdrive. As for using RTV to seal the housing. My toyota has the same style pull out center as the mopars. I used rtv on it let it set up for a bit then slapped the center section in. no issues so far.

If your on the cheap, brush on some rustoleum. I have it on two of my rears and it holds up pretty good.

Check it on the ground, if your driveshaft is spinning and the car isn't moving you blew the rear. if you look and the driveshaft isn't moving and the car isn't moving you can assume the rear isn't blown up.

Its a simple adjustment. At Wide open throttle you want the linkage to go as far back as it possibly can, without effecting your wide open throttle (ie. only letting you get 90% throttle). also make sure the spring is on the linkage that pulls it forward towards the front end of the vehicle.

Go buy the darn thing. I spent 600 bucks on a sure grip rear then like 300 on bearings and axles and i still have drum brakes. Even if you decide not to use it in your mopar, I'm sure you can find something to put it in. Or sell it for more money.

In general it should be smooth with slight resistance.

I recently just had to hunt down one of those for my car. I dont remember for sure but i "think" about 57" center to center on the u joint caps. I could measure for you tomorrow in the light if you want and get the right measurement.

If your shortening and getting new axles you should be able to get it to work. Some of the 7 1/4 backing plates have 4 holes and some have 5 like on the 8 3/4. If it has 4 you can drill the 5th out and everything should bolt up.

Thats some great info there, now i dont have to guess when i get my speedo gear.:cheers:

You can ballpark gear ratios by marking the wheels and pinion and seeing how many turns it takes the pinion to turn the wheels one time. My bet is on 8 1/4. how many bolts does the cover have?

Nah mines open. Oh and the 7 1/4 has C clip axles rite? so i just pop the cover off and remove the c clips and slide the axles out? or are they like the 8 3/4?