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Duh! I was looking for something like that. Couldn't see it for looking! Post is gone now. :thumbsup:

Post #18 is blatant promotion of the link the poster provided. I don't know FABO's policy regaerding this, but it seems something should be done.

I'll disassemble and clean, for sure. When I cut the air horn off, there will be no threads, but that's addressed by cutting around the a/c stud boss. I'll leave the bosses, stud and vent tube, thanks. I took the choke flap off long ago. I sealed the rod hole then. This is why I want to...

There's only about 3/4" of thread. Looks like I should have the machinist mill around the vent tube and the casting where the stud is.

If I cut the air horn off of my Street Avenger 770, will there still be threads to hold the air cleaner stud? EDIT: I’ll remove the stud and see if I can see or feel down in there. And, see if the stud will thread down enough.

I bit the bullet and bought the Holley kit. I feel more confident that they are flowed. (I also found out that Summit raised the free shipping to $109.) You make good points about having the stuff around. I have the set screws, drill/tap and some pin drills on the way.

But you always have everything in stock! My wife tells me to go out more! She'd better be careful what she wishes for if I get the racing urge again! Years ago, I was at the track as many weekends and Tuesday/Friday nights as I could. It took a few years, but I finally realized I'd never be...

They any good?

It might pay to buy the whole darned set. If I use say, just 3 sets each, front and rear, that's $66! No matter how I buy them, I'll have to get the order over $99 to save the shipping. Anybody want to buy some jets? lol

I see some on there that are dirt cheap. I'm thinnin' they ain't Holley, and probably aren't flowed?

I'm working on my Holley Avenger 770 using this thread as a guide: Power Valve Selection: The Definitive Answer I was directed to it on my thread about taking my Duster to the track. I'm going to need some jets, but I sure won't ever need all the jets that are in the the sets that go from 64...

Post 16 of this thread talks about tolerance, as you mentioned Locomotion. Jet size markings I should also mention that the jets I have are black. Maybe someone else will chime in. Thanks Locomotion.

Been along time since I’ve seen a Holley jet. I have an 89770-1 Street Avenger. The jets have the letter “H” after the size number. Does this have any significance other than maybe indicating it’s for a Holley?

A friend paid $2995 for a new 6 bbl Road Runner! It stickered around $3500, but it was on the back of the lot. I guess it had too many carburetors, and that hood, who wants to lift their hood off all of the time? (The latter is probably a good point, lol.)

Thanks for the link to your thread, diymirage. I'll check out Spectre. I guess most want a hood scoop, that's why there's not much interest in ram air. Thanks doug 371 and scatpackbee, also.

... By Air Inlet Systems. index.html Anyone have experience with this company/product? I don't want a scoop or cowl hood on the street/strip Duster I'm building.

1st- Pulling it out curled it as it came out. 2nd-Same. 3rd-Insert at top, almost as long as the neck. 4th-Top end has the louvers, I believe I said it was at the bottom. Damage is from me pulling it out. The spot weld was at the top, too. 5th-Tongue shape is at the bottom. It stuck out of the...

I'll post a couple pics tomorrow. It's not the restrictor. They started in 75 with the cats and no lead. It's almost as long as the filler neck itself. It had the usual rusty/white crud that I've seen in other old fuel system parts. Oh, it also has a few louvers near the bottom end of it.

The filler neck on my 74 Dart Sport (now a 71 Duster), has (had) a sort of baffle in it that makes it really hard to clean out. I'm guessing that the purpose of it is to prevent back splash when fueling. I took it out and was able to clean the two pieces. I figured I could slide it back in...

This is where I'm going to leave it for now, because the car needs LOTS of other work before it's driveable: I tried it with the plate holes open again, it runs better with them plugged, and the secondaries cracked. The holes are 9/64, probably too big. I took 7* out of the dist., it has 22...

Wow AJ! That's a lot to absorb. I'm going to take some time to mull it over. I know I need to look the carb over and see what I did to it when the engine last ran 10 years ago. There's a common theme that you and YR have, concerning transition slots. Thank you for your time, effort and interest!

I'll try it again with the holes open (and close the secondaries). I'll see how much of the transition slots are exposed. I sure would like to avoid closing them or replacing them.

Trying the sound clip again. Beats me.

In another thread, I mentioned that I got a little better idle by temporarily plugging the holes that I had drilled in my primary throttle blades, and cracking open the secondary blades instead. Now, how do I permanently fill the holes? Do I remember a soldering method? It obviously has to...

I bumped the timing 7*. Should be 22 initial now. (I saw 42 total.) It has 6" vac now. The idle went up and I lowered it to about 1100 now. Much more stable. (Considering what it is. Wouldn't idle consistently before.) I set up the Wagner PCV, didn't affect it, but now it's set. I'll be...

I don't expect much vacuum. I thought I'd see more than 3", though. No power brakes, nothing that needs vacuum.

I'm going out to try more initial soon. Good idea. One other thing I have to look into: It has a 6.5 PV, and it doesn't seem to be open at only 3" vac.

Other than this, it has a mech advance Unilite ignition. What else needed? EDIT: Also, it has Hooker 5204 1 3/4 headers, Summit turbo mufflers and turn downs. I'm going to check timing again. I'm pretty sure it is set at 35 total, which should be 15 initial. I haven't be able to idle it low...

Recently got my 360 running in my Duster. Cant drive it, LOTS more work to get there. lol Anyhow, it's 11.2:1, MP 292 508 cam, 2.02 intakes, 915 heads are ported, Torker II intake and 750 vac Holley. It's idling at 900 rpm @ 3" of vacuum. I have this PCV, M/E Wagner Performance Products –...

As far as vacuum leaks go... check the power brake booster if equipped, vacuum advance unit, anything where there's vacuum. Propane is a less messy way to check. If it has points, check their condition and gap, any oil on them? Mechanical and vacuum advance mechanisms operate smoothly? Just a...