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It takes quite a while for that ship to sail from China to the US!!

"Experience is everything." That's what she said!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Sleeving the bores will save the engine for future overhauls. When the sleeved cylinder wears out you just re-sleeve it!! I don't see any drawbacks to sleeving.

426 HEMI

In my opinion, the best 318 to use is the............................................ 440!!!!:steering::steering::steering::rofl::rofl::rofl:

My daughter-in-law is a nurse........everyone knows a nurse, I had her bring me a large syringe. That worked perfectly!!! I piece of plexiglass, some grease, clean surfaces and you're good to go!! It's actually very, very easy.

This is how I did it at home. It was inexpensive and easy! After measuring each chamber you can simply remove a little material on the combustion chambers that are too small (lower ccs) until they match the largest ones..

I've had many 350s but never a 383. Down here in S.Texas mopars are a little rare. Chevys are cheap and abundant. The yellow Barracuda in my avatar had to be shipped in from Arizona. I had a Barracuda back in the 70s and always wanted another one so I found the yellow one and bought it.

10 more cubes and you'll have a Chebby??? small block stoker - 383:rofl::rofl::rofl:

I know treblig, he's a real butthole.....eh!!

But it also depends on the tensioner (sacrificial) material and the chain design???

If I remember correctly the last thread on this subject basically said that it depends on what kind of chain you have/buy?? The type of chain has some determination on whether you need (or can use) a tensioner.

There was a big discussion on this subject a week or so ago. There was lots of good info in the posts. Do a quick search!

If the chain is too tight on the first install just put the chain in the oven for a while before installing. Be sure to wear gloves!!!!

There's a lot more contact surface on that one, the larger surface area contact should cause less wear on the tensioner.

If it was me I would remove the chain and deburr/smooth all the exterior surfaces. The exterior surfaces have no effect on timing since the chain wear occurs on the inner part (critical part) of the chain.

Sleeve it!!!

Sometimes it's easier to bust the piston. Drill some holes in the top and use a chisel to break it up!

Don't know if it will yellow but i do know that gasoline will stain it permenantly!!!

I only know because I was in the aircraft industry and we used Locktite for many applications. It will wash out in the presense of water/moisture. Once it sets it's waterproof as far as I know.

I didn't know if there was any standing water in the block. If there is water in the block the water will wash out the Locktite before it dries. Once it dries (in the absence of water) it should be OK.

Locktite is water soluble so do not use that!!!

The center readings will almost always be higher because you have two cylinders dumping right next to each other into the same area of the manifold. Not sure about that back one on that one side.

I agree.......not everyone has money pouring out of their @ss.

He's not building a race motor or a drag motor. If it's a simple street car he could run it the way it is and save tons of money. Every one saying that it needs a complete overhaul are probably not willing to pay for the machine shop bills??? I would lap the valves and run to see what it does.

Exactly, Exactly!!!!!!!!! It might just purr like a kitten and nothing will be lost>

I see cross hatching in the cylinders so how could they be worn?

You would think that an experienced company like Lunati would have a bright orange warning label inside the box telling you that you should disassemble and lube before use. I mean, come on...........do they actually want customers to be unhappy!!!!!!!

The Gin made me do it.........Sorry!!

He's not working on a train..........he's working on a Mopar!!!:poke::rofl::rofl: