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yea, ive thought about that. id like to try and locate the correct screw before I try that though

Looking for a replacement idle mixture screw for an AFB from a 68 Hemi. Carb # is 4431S It has a taper or step to it, and I do have a parts AFB that has a very similar screw, but its threaded at the step and will not fit into the carb correctly. The screw I need is on the top and the parts carb...

This carb is off of a non AC 340 4 speed car

I agree 100% with you! just like the solenoid on the 6 BBL's. They were used for anti dieseling. Now where can i find one??? ill look at year one, but that sounds like a long shot

Well i just got off the phone with carbjunkys and wasnt real impressed. I asked if they would have a solenoid for a 70 avs and the answer was "no". The second comment was "you dont need it" and the third was " it was only used on air conditioning cars to raise the idle". So now the question is...

Not a numbers car, but I don't want to fight with it once I get the engine together. Id rather have it correct and right the first time. As far as plating goes, I don't know if I need that. If everyone agrees that I can buy a kit and some carb soaking solvent, and make it run right, ill give it...

4933 S 2619 68 Carb looks pretty good overall. I have not pulled it apart to look inside. Choke, choke pull off, and misc. parts seem to be there. Main part that is missing is the idle solenoid.

If a kit is easily to come by i have no problem with doing it myself. I guess im just looking to find someone with the ability to get it back as close to factory as possible. I dont know what ill find when i pull the top off as far as metering rods,(if an AVS even has them!) jets, floats etc. I...

I hear ya, and ive done it before, but im not capable of checking for shaft wear etc... Also im in need of some missing linkage parts, mainly the idle solenoid.

I am asking for recomendations on someone to go through and rebuild an 1970 4 speed AVS to factory specs. Ive seen a couple names on here of some rebuilders, but looking for some recomendations.

yes I agree, Pete at best machine does nice work and i would take his advice. He is not saying he would deny warranty,or do not do it, but he's not liking my wanting to run a mechanical pump on this motor, maily due to seeing one of these pushrods fail on a customers motor recently. My goal here...

Best Machine, Farmington hills Mi. who is assembling the 383 stroker for my Valiant is concerned over using a mechanical fuel pump due to the poor quality of the new fuel pump pushrods. I have been told that the end or ends of the pushrod could wear very rapidly causing troubles early on...

69 1/2 6bbl, 5/16!

ya, a friend just put a new tank on a 67, and i think ran into the same thing. i think he ordered the 68, i dont think there is a difference. 67 has one mount strap as opposed to two, thats the only thing i saw that was different.

well i pulled the bowl apart again last night, and looked everything over close. The only things that looked suspicious were the float itself had marks in the notch area where it obviously was contacting the jets and extensions, and the spring, didnt seem to be doing anything at all. i assume...

ill pull it apart tonight and check it over close. How is the float spring suppose to operate? the plastic float actually says Holley on it. i was told the brass floats cant be used with jet extensions, and the plastic is not as bouyant. could it be a sharp edge on the float extension is...

yes it has jet extensions, and yes, i called quick fuel yesterday and told them about my problem. There response was #1 fuel pressure. I am running an OOTB Holley blue pump and regulator. I tried to explain to them that the float only seems to stick when the float has hit the bottom of the bowl...

Anyone have any thoughts on why the rear float is sticking down on a brand new OOTB quick fuel Q 1050? On initial startup, (filling the fuel system and bowls), The rear float stuck open, (down), pouring fuel into the intake. I pulled the bowl apart everything looked ok, reassembled, drained...

i havent run it yet, and im sure ill hate it but here it is on a 69 swinger

i know that newer cars have the inertia switch, but i was just going by what Holley recomends in the installation instructions. If you look at the wiring diagram in the instructions, they use a 3 pole switch that puts power to the pump during engine cranking, so you have fuel for starting.

well, my understanding and thoughts are that the oil pressure switch is not there to protect the engine from damage, but to protect you and your car in the event of an accident or a ruptured fuel line. The engine stops, so does the fuel.

well it looks like everyone is doing it a little different. I guess its just personal preference. Myself, i think i will try and use a presure switch. i think the added safety is worth it. I would hate to burn up a car i just spent a ton of cash on, and a year building.

Define "both" a manual and electric? i think i would run a presure switch and no toggle. im assuming your pump toggle is in the ON position whenever the engine is running.

my plan is to run the manual or the electric, not both. I understand your setup, but im not sure i would have to run a bypass switch if the fuel bowls were full on start up. once the engine fired, the pump would kick on. the wiring schematic is printed with a oil switch in the Holley...

What are your guys opinions on running an elec. fuel pump without the safety of an oil presure switch? it seems unsafe to me to just wire it in with the key switch. I have both a new high performace carter manual, and a new Holley blue pump. Im having a 408 assembled and the machine shop says go...

will do!

I have been dealing with pete so far, and he said he would source the converter for me. he also said he has a transmission shop that he usually deals with. Im trying to concentrate on the motor first, and get all the parts, then ill move on to the transmission. Jegs shows a mopar super victor as...

I agree, and i have for the most part. im just shopping for misc. parts and saw the price of the two manifolds and wondered if the mopar was worth looking at.

well, right or wrong im pretty much listening to the advise of the engine builder for internal parts (Best Machine, detroit Mi). The car, 69 swinger will be 80% strip, 727(no converter yet, but was told i need to go pretty loose) auto 410 gear. custom grind solid flat tappet cam, forged crank...

Having a 408 assembled W/Indy prepped edelbrocks, and want your opinions on intakes. Use a Mopar M1 or An Edelbrock super victor? the Edelbrock costs quite a bit more at around 350.00, and a Mopar can be found for around 200.00. Carb also, will be a Quick fuel, or a Holley HP