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I am running an A&A reverse patter manual valve body that I bought about 5 years ago in my Duster. It works fine, but will not downshift to first gear unless the car is at a complete stop. Is this a normal characteristic and if so, can it be modified to allow the downshift? The car is use for...

Any advice?

I have a 72 904 on which I did the wide ratio gear swap about 10 years ago. I am now going through it as I am replacing the engine in my Duster and I would like to install the 5 clutch drum and wide band from a 999. I have the drum and band, but am running into a clearance problem with the pump...

It's been so long since I had this trans apart that I can't remember if that's has been done or not, I'll have to check it.

Thanks Leadfoot, I will look closely at the valve body when I remove it. I don't think the filter could be the problem because, even after 10+ years of use, there aren't a ton of miles on it and problem has been there from the beginning. I will do a full overhaul any way, because the old 318 is...

I believe that I have eliminated any possible external causes and the trans needs to be torn down regardless, I'm just wondering if anyone has any insight into specific areas that I should look for during the inspection.

No the KD isn't the issue, the adjustment has been verified several times and the kick-down functions normally. I've been driving this thing off and on for over 10 years. It was my daily driver until the mighty 318 finally wore out.

I'm about to start on the rehab of my Duster and 1 of the many things that I have to deal with is rebuilding the wide ratio 904. This trans was built about 12 years ago by a friend/tech at a local Dodge dealership. After installation it had several problems that I can't recall any more, that led...

I've had a Trac Loc with 3.55 gears in the 8.25 in my 70 Duster for several years now. It's a good light duty LSD for street use, especially when cost is a consideration. It is completely transparent in operation and you'll never even know it's there until you call upon it to leave a couple of...

Your best bet (safest) is to use 73 and up bb 7 1/4 axles. Second choice would be adapters (easiest and possibly cheapest). I have used both of these approaches in the past. IMHO, re-drilling the axles removes too much material for my comfort. I have used Trans Dapt adapters.

I was thinking of using a 200 4R, but after reading this thread, a 42RH seems like a better idea. While it appears that the A500/42RH was used beginning in 1988, what are the best years and applications to get cores? BTW, this thread is great.

Both the8.25 and 8.75 van axles would need to be narrowed.

I believe that you are confusing the Dana 30 with the Dana 35. The 30 was not really used in rear applications, but it's in the front of all XJ and Grand Cherokees until they switched to IFS. The 35 is in the rear of many XJ Cherokees (all with ABS). Both the 30 and 35 have 10 bolts. The cover...

The early 8.25 uses a different carrier than the Dakota 8.25. The ring gears interchange but the carrier bearing diameter is larger on the Dakota, so you cannot interchange the carriers, limited slip or otherwise. I don't know what year the change was made, but it has nothing to do with the axle...

Can't be the peedlepod portasnorkel, they all have a pentastar stamped in the upper right quadrant of the binary quotient. Could be a cheap chinese rip off though.

How about running the brass 1 in the pan for less restriction at the pick up and a replaceable cannister 1 in the return line. You could change the cannister on a more frequent basis, such as along with oil changes.

The Eaton Truetrac is the best LSD for cars used on the street, road course or auto-cross bar none. It's strong, doesn't wear out and it's operation is seamless. Not the cheapest, but the best. BTW, it doesn't need whale snot gear oil additive either.

Do both of them and it's also a good idea to do the pan bolts.

If you go with Lokar, you should use their throttle cable also, as in Tony's picture. That's how I did my son's Duster and it works great. If you're using the factory linkage, follow the procedure in the FSM for the linkage type on your vehicle, early or late. One advantage of the Lokar setup is...

Need to suscribe to this thread. I'm very interested in this swap.

Mopar part# 3507575

Check your driveshaft length, if there is not enough free-play in the slip yoke, it can bind in reverse.

Nice car, what rear end does it use? I believe that Ramblers of that era still use closed drive lines with torque tubes. 727's are longer, I'm sure someone else on the site wil chime in with the measurements.

Converter drain back may be the problem, but the OP doesn't say if the problem is in drive, Reverse or both. When a T/F has been sitting a long time the servo O rings can harden and the servos leak pressure until they warm up. If that's the case, it needs more that a fluid and filter change.

When you say that it's puking out of the dipstick tube, do you mean while it's running or after it's been sitting shut off for awhile? If it does it after sitting, what you're seeing is drain back of fluid from the torque converter over-filling the pan. The vent is inside the bell housing.

If you used an E body shaft, it's too long and binding in reverse. You need to have the shaft shortened to the proper length. Cutting the yoke won't work because it needs the length to compensate for suspension movement.

Lokar, works & looks great. After using it, I'll never bother with the factory linkage again.

In that case, Fishy is right and you've got some work ahead of you.

I'm with ham r, sounds like the strut fell out or the band may have broken. Do you have manual low gear? If it's the strut, it can be re-installed after you drop the pan and remove the valve body, a broken band will require a complete tear down. Were you referring to a bog (acellerator pump)...