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You can use the stock radiator if you use the 273 water pump and timing cover. If you use a 360 pump (recommended) you will need the 360 timing cover and a radiator for a 1970 or later A body. That's in addition to the torque converter and mount issues already mentioned.

Before you change anything: have you verified that the engine is, in fact a 340? Have you done a compression check? Once you have verified the condition of the engine, you can proceed. The phrases "fresh rebuild" and "built to six-pack specs" don't mean anything. Come to think of it, I've seen...

What oil pan are you planning to use? The one in your picture looks like a truck pan.

Even though I bought a ring spreader in 1973 when I built my first engine, I never use it. I think installing the rings by hand gives me much better control and is less likely to result in damage to the piston or the ring. The spreader makes a great conversation piece hanging on my wall for...

Since it's iron, I'm betting on marine, marine engines don't usually use aluminum.

I believe that this originated with early engines, such as flathead Fords, that had fewer main bearings and were made of softer materials. A 2 main bearing 4 cyl or 3 main V8 crank might very well warp if stored on it's side for any length of time. A modern forged crank is probably less likely...

Not a henway, it's obviously a duckworth.

It'll be pretty tough to get 350hp out of the 273 heads and they don't have hardened valve seats for unleaded gas. If it were mine, I'd use the 360 heads, mill them to try to re-gain some compression and be happy with 300-320hp while you build up the rest of the car. I'm planning a similar set...

Before anyone can answer that, you need to tell us what your power goals for this engine are.

What he said.

The engine is out. The cost of parts to re-ring is cheap and you will do the labor yourself. I would dingle-ball hone it, install iron rings and inspect it while it's apart. Doing the heads and replacing the oil pump is also a good idea. If you go this way you should end up with a reliable...

I agree with carackedback on the intake, but have a question regarding your cam choice. Which Purple cam are you talking about (duration/lift)? That 360 has very low compression and even with machined heads it won't be great. That RC is heavy and needs a lot of low end torque just to get...

805 is right use a damper puller, not a gear puller. BTW, for removing the crank bolt when the engine is in the car, I use a piece of steel strap with 2 holes in it. 1 for drilled to fit 1 of the torque converter bolts and the other a 1/4" hole, that I attach to 1 of the holes in the trans...

Without a leakdown test there's no real way to determine the problem, but what does it matter? I'm with Rumblefish, it's a tired old engine in need of a rebuild. I wouldn't worry about those heads because if you're aiming for 400 hp, you won't be using them anyway.

Because Mopar push rods don't have oiling holes in them, the AMC lifters work fine. Any oil that comes up through the lifter just dead ends because the Mopar push rod blocks the flow. However, if you use push rods from a 396 Chevy application, that do have oil passages through them, in a 440...

You asked for an opinion and here it is; too much spring pressure during break in is a big deal and can contribute greatly to cam and lifter failure at this time. Sure, removing and later re-installing the inner springs is a big hassle, but nothing compared to the hassle of disassembling the...

Did this happen all of a sudden or was it after you made some change or repair?

Of all the things that you mention here, the cam is probably the least expensive and pretty easy to change out later. When I first put my Duster together it had a 318, 2.76 gears in a 7.25 and the cam I chose was an Edelbrock Performer-Plus # 2177, a very mild cam and have been very happy with...

I agree with Chuck, but 2 other issues; you will need an intake that matches the Magnum bolt pattern (Edelbrock and some others) and if the engine came out of a late model Ram truck there may be no provisions to mount the car mounts to the block.

The numbers on the rods are stamped at the time of assembly. Every B/RB engine I have disassembled has been numbered and most of the LA motors too, but the last 2 318s (86+87) were not. On those 2, I used punch marks just like I do on Navel engines.

You know in a few months time, I will have to make a decision about what heads to run to replace the 302s on the 318 in my Duster, but I don't think I'll be asking you guys for advice.

What RPM is it running with 40 degrees advance? Could the oil pump drive gear be off a tooth or 2?

Sppedomotive does a 318 to 391 stroker kit. Not cheap, but they've adressed all the issues. http://www.speedomotive.com/ps-138-13-mopar-la-318cid-to-391cid-stroker-kit-1964-1992.aspx

Yes, it is the same one, but if you have just the plain round one, you will also need a small round one to go under the adapter nipple itself.