A friend gave me a 318 magnum . Has roller cam and magnum heads . Does anyone know how to tell the year. Would like to put intake ,carb,early model electronic distributor. How do these motors run with this setup. Planning on headers ,2.5 exhaust,904 with low first,3.23 gear and a street convertor in my sons 67 dart.
318 magnum
- Thread starter rick4106
- Start date
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340mopar
Sorgermotorsports
You will have to use an electric fuel pump. The Magnums don't have a provision for a mechanical fuel pump. Other than that you can convert one to carb / standard distributor very easily.
Chuck
Chuck
Wheel Chock
Well-Known Member
I agree with Chuck, but 2 other issues; you will need an intake that matches the Magnum bolt pattern (Edelbrock and some others) and if the engine came out of a late model Ram truck there may be no provisions to mount the car mounts to the block.
UOP
Well-Known Member
You'll be in the 300 range at the crank. Should be a nice little cruiser.
fishy68
Tyr Fryr's Inc.
You'll also have to change the oil pan to a center sump car pan.
I've seen some 318 magnums run real strong. I bought a 93 Dakota Sport new that had the 318 mag. and with a few bolt on's it ran mid 14's. I figured it must have been pretty close to 300 hp to do that in a 3600 lb. truck.
I've seen some 318 magnums run real strong. I bought a 93 Dakota Sport new that had the 318 mag. and with a few bolt on's it ran mid 14's. I figured it must have been pretty close to 300 hp to do that in a 3600 lb. truck.
LXguy
Well-Known Member
Before you start, double check that it has the old style motor mount provisions.
You can pretty easily make it run a mechanical pump if you want. Hughes (and others) sell parts to make the snout compatible with a pump eccentric. Or you can get an aftermarket cam that has the snout on it.
I would highly recommend getting a cam for it. The truck cams are very mild and don't want a lot of RPM.
I would very much recommend pulling the heads and checking for cracks. Magnum heads are notorious for cracking. My magnum engine had 60-70K miles on it and both heads were cracked.
Assuming some things are the same as the 5.9...
With the hooker Comp headers you will probably have to grind the crap out of the truck style mount on the driver's side to keep the headers from hitting it. I had to grind mine entirely off.
There is a small amount of grinding that will have to be done to run a ministarter. If possible fit it up out of the car so you can see where this will happen.
You can just drop that dizzy in in place of the late model unit.
Good Luck!
You can pretty easily make it run a mechanical pump if you want. Hughes (and others) sell parts to make the snout compatible with a pump eccentric. Or you can get an aftermarket cam that has the snout on it.
I would highly recommend getting a cam for it. The truck cams are very mild and don't want a lot of RPM.
I would very much recommend pulling the heads and checking for cracks. Magnum heads are notorious for cracking. My magnum engine had 60-70K miles on it and both heads were cracked.
Assuming some things are the same as the 5.9...
With the hooker Comp headers you will probably have to grind the crap out of the truck style mount on the driver's side to keep the headers from hitting it. I had to grind mine entirely off.
There is a small amount of grinding that will have to be done to run a ministarter. If possible fit it up out of the car so you can see where this will happen.
You can just drop that dizzy in in place of the late model unit.
Good Luck!
Good post LX.
These engines were stock at or around 230+ HP. Food for thought....the MP create engines were a basic stock Magnum engine with a cam and intake. I'm not dead sure about the pistons though.
These seris engines will perform just as well if not better than the older "LA" engines. Theres a few plus factors over the "LA" engine like
roller cam and higher ratio rockers at 1.6 with 1.7 available.
Warning, with cam changes, do the math and check for valve to piston clearances.
The heads flow well and with smaller intake valves.
Again, truck engines have a rear sump pan that has to be changed out to a center sump pan for car use.
These engines were stock at or around 230+ HP. Food for thought....the MP create engines were a basic stock Magnum engine with a cam and intake. I'm not dead sure about the pistons though.
These seris engines will perform just as well if not better than the older "LA" engines. Theres a few plus factors over the "LA" engine like
roller cam and higher ratio rockers at 1.6 with 1.7 available.
Warning, with cam changes, do the math and check for valve to piston clearances.
The heads flow well and with smaller intake valves.
Again, truck engines have a rear sump pan that has to be changed out to a center sump pan for car use.
Beatnik
Well-Known Member
Yea you'll love that little 318. Roller cam technology and the improved head design make for a nice little motor. I love my 5.9 in my Scamp. Way better than my 340 was.
One option, you can swap out the timing cover for the older LA style when you do the oil pan switcheroo...then you'll have the mounting provision for a mech. pump...but you will need the eccentric adapter from Hughes as mentioned.
One option, you can swap out the timing cover for the older LA style when you do the oil pan switcheroo...then you'll have the mounting provision for a mech. pump...but you will need the eccentric adapter from Hughes as mentioned.
Backtobasics
Well-Known Member
I wouldn't jump to cam swap right away.
The stock truck motors don't like to rev because of the intake manifold design. "beer barrel / Kegger" style intake with LONG runners for torque, and a marginal sized throttle body. These, coupled with a mild cam, create an engine that is built for TQ and low RPM
Once Intake and throttle body are addressed, the engine will run into the upper RPM range much better.
Likely you will use a standard carb application intake manifold, and 4 bbl carb. These 2 alone will make a big difference.
Cam swaps on Magnums are kind of pricey. The cam is 2-3x what you would pay for a basic flat tappet hydraulic cam and lifter kit. ALL of Comp cams offerings require new valve springs due to coil bind of stock valve springs, and Comp does not offer the springs, you have to go to Mopar Performance (unless you can find springs based on open and closed seat pressure, and ID and OD specifications) I would not be too surprised to see 400-500 bucks wrapped up into a Cam/Valve springs combo on Magnum motor.
The stock truck motors don't like to rev because of the intake manifold design. "beer barrel / Kegger" style intake with LONG runners for torque, and a marginal sized throttle body. These, coupled with a mild cam, create an engine that is built for TQ and low RPM
Once Intake and throttle body are addressed, the engine will run into the upper RPM range much better.
Likely you will use a standard carb application intake manifold, and 4 bbl carb. These 2 alone will make a big difference.
Cam swaps on Magnums are kind of pricey. The cam is 2-3x what you would pay for a basic flat tappet hydraulic cam and lifter kit. ALL of Comp cams offerings require new valve springs due to coil bind of stock valve springs, and Comp does not offer the springs, you have to go to Mopar Performance (unless you can find springs based on open and closed seat pressure, and ID and OD specifications) I would not be too surprised to see 400-500 bucks wrapped up into a Cam/Valve springs combo on Magnum motor.
dartfever
Well-Known Member
I have a warmed over 318 in my 97 Dakota. It dynoed 247 rwhp which works out to 320-340 at the crank depending on what drivetrain loss you believe. Definitely have to watch the lift on the cam. I think .520 is the absolute max without head work to cut the valve guides back. Mine has the R/T cam which is 204/208 at .050". I believe this cam came stock in the 360 magnum 300 crate engines.
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