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I bought them direct from AMD, still have the stickers that came on them with my receipts.

I used Herculiner, took about 2 gallons, $140. Of course lots of labor to clean prep, and I used a gallon of Rust-Oleum metal primer, I think that cost me 25$ at Menards. I made the mistake of doing it while my car was on wheels, laying on my back... Had to shave my head I got so much in my...

I really like how it turned out. Crazy how much it fades though from when I did the mid/rear vs the front. About 2 years in-between. As solid as you would expect a truck bed liner to be.

I'm just on my way out to the garage to do just that right now!! Then herculiner to finish it off.

Well, made the decision to go to a pro for some help as I just wasn't able to get the panel lined up the way I wanted, and given I have no experience doing this, really didn't want to mess it up. Results were amazing! Also had a skin out on the passenger rear quarter too. The body shop only had...

Rust!!! I cut it out with the old floor plans but haven't replaced it yet as I'm not sure what direction I'll go with the tranny. As much as I love the idea of the new Passing A855's, still not sold on that being a better choice than a new Tremec. That looks really good bye!! Nice work.

I'm just going through this process now too. Floor plans are in and I was thinking to use 3M's seam sealer both inside and underneath. Primer first, then seam sealer, then truck bed liner. If you seal the seams completely, would there be concerns, or does condensation still allow water to be...

AMD fit awesome in my 74 Dodge dart. Just finished the install. I also used a pneumatic hole punch, saves time!!

It comes with a 24" long tube with conical nozzle.

If you're looking for something to do the inside of the frame rails as well, I'd recommend Eastwood's internal frame rails paint. Ive had really good results using it. Eastwood Internal Frame Anti-Rust Coating, 14 oz. Spray Eastwood Internal Frame Anti-Rust Coating, 14 oz. Spray

Ditto

I think your best bet is to read the product instructions and contact the manufacturer.

I should note I put it on with a brush and roller.

Not disagreeing on quality auto paint, but I've also had rustoleum on a tractor that sits outside 24/7 unprotected. Been about 10 years and the only damage is fading from the sun and scratches where I ran into something. A gallon of their rusty metal primer and then their topcoat is all I used...

Looks good!

A member on here made a real nice set with some light weight (3/16" maybe) rod ends (or similiar) and female threaded rod that provided some adjustability for taste. It was a nice looking setup that I'll copy since the PO just flattened the end of some copper pipe and bolted it down on my dart...

I was really generous with the application and have used 5 so far (includes other areas besides the frame rails), but i bet 3 cans would suffice. Heck, prolly even 2. The coverage is pretty decent.

I did my cowl, rockers and sprayed some down into the trunk dropoff. I also did inside my subframe connectors. I like the product, and will put a second coat in some areas. For the cowl I used the black color as '89 mentioned.

Would these also fit a 74 dart sport the same? Apologies but I'm not familiar with all the differences between years.

Ditto, I use rustoleum everywhere except where the final paint job will hit. Awesome and cheap.

I couldn't believe it myself!! I'm often grinding & sanding areas as I'm doing a lot of welding at the moment, and still, very little change at all when comparing to untouched areas. Before I epoxy I'll surely go over the car and prep properly. I wouldn't believe it if I wasn't seeing it...

I sanded my car down to bare metal 3 years ago and never used any rust preventative or primer, just been sitting in the garage, bare steel. I've had almost zero surface rust issues, and only broke out the sand paper maybe twice to clean a couple spots. I'd challenge the need to do any rust...

Looks a lot better! Before you paint, make sure you sand that metal with 120 grit at least. The wire wheel polishes the steel, and you'll need some scratches in the surface to get a good mechanical adhesion.

If you're getting the metal as clean as that last pic, while por-15 is a good product, is not intended for bare steel and there are many stories of application failure. Personally I'd use something much more forgiving and easier to apply.

I also used 5/16, started my weld on the frame then circled out to the floor pan.

Personally, when sanding my car I did hit those spots until the surface rust was gone amd I saw clean metal. I found that a wire wheel on my drill and an electric orbital palm sander with 80 grit provided the best results. I have cleaned about 90% of the paint and rust off my car using these.

A torch and a wire brush works pretty good. You'll see the lead start to sag and then just rough it up with the hand brush. Repeat until clean. This worked well for me. Get a quality spot weld cutter, it makes a world of difference. I use a Blair Rotabroach spotweld cutter and it's awesome...

This makes me laugh. I had finished cleaning and primed the underside of my dart from about the passenger floor pan area to the bumper and was ready to put Herculiner down (a reasonable truck bed liner product). I asked 2 of my brothers to crawl under the car with me and help paint it on with a...

Feeling a lot better after today. Made a lot of progress on the fitment, only about 1/2" to make up now on the bottom of the rocker, and I see a few areas that are binding. Still have lots to do yet though before I can weld. Body lines are pretty good, same with the Z axis although hard to tell...

I used a similar product called Chasis Saver. A little more forgiving on the application, and I really like the results. Used it on my axle and inside the front wheel well.