Undercoat and Paint Color Match

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charliec

charliec

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I am almost to the point of taking my '68 Dart 2dr hardtop off the rotisserie and getting it back on the floor. I have a number of questions for everybody to chime in on.

1. It's been on the rotis for 20 years!!!! Yikes, I know! No special bracing for doors or anywhere else. What should I anticipate in terms of trying to get things lined up and properly fit? Should I expect a significant amount of distortion in the body and frame rails?

2. I would eventually like to install sub-frame connectors, and I also want to add torque boxes. Should I wait until after it's back on the floor to put in the connectors just in case there has been some distortion of the body?

3. I want to apply an undercoat to the body/frame. I assume that this is best done while it is still on the rotis. I live on the Texas Gulf Coast so we don't have a problem with road salt, etc., but we certainly have our share of rain and humidity. The undercoat needs to be a shield for that and also a sound deadener. What brand or type is recommended?

4. I will finally paint the underside with the final body color. I'm not looking for show quality, but I want something to blend with the body so wheel wells, etc. don't stick out like a soar thumb. I notice that Sherwin Williams has a line of paints that they advertise as matching original factory colors. Have any of you ever used SW for this? Otherwise, what source/manufacturer do you recommend? I want to use yellow; in Plymouth cross reference they called it Y2 Sunfire Yellow, but I think Dodge just called it plain old yellow for the Dart.
 
You can have spray in bed liner that is tinted to match your paint. You want to go with a 2K, not the cheap spray can stuff. I used Raptor on my trunk. Wish I had used it on the bottom side of the car, it turned out awesome.
The body should be fine as long as your frame rails, rockers, inner fenders, etc are all in good shape. Hope you did not replace or repair any of the above areas while on the rotisserie. That will surely cause alignment issues. Also, when doing final alignment of panels you want to on the wheels/suspension with engine in etc.
 
All the structural parts are solid as a rock, so no worries there.
 
I'm thinking of using Raptor on underside of my cuda. Floor pan is AMD, trunk pan too. Still has edp coating. Do you know if you can scuff and spray? I see the tech sheet says to prime. Would scuffing exp be good?
Oh I looked into Linex. Fyi It is expensive, needs to be bare metal, and primed with their product due to high heat for their topcoating. $2000 up here in Canada.
Thanks
Steve
MoparMike1974 said:
You can have spray in bed liner that is tinted to match your paint. You want to go with a 2K, not the cheap spray can stuff. I used Raptor on my trunk. Wish I had used it on the bottom side of the car, it turned out awesome.
The body should be fine as long as your frame rails, rockers, inner fenders, etc are all in good shape. Hope you did not replace or repair any of the above areas while on the rotisserie. That will surely cause alignment issues. Also, when doing final alignment of panels you want to on the wheels/suspension with engine in etc.
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MoparMike1974 said:
You can have spray in bed liner that is tinted to match your paint. You want to go with a 2K, not the cheap spray can stuff. I used Raptor on my trunk. Wish I had used it on the bottom side of the car, it turned out awesome.
The body should be fine as long as your frame rails, rockers, inner fenders, etc are all in good shape. Hope you did not replace or repair any of the above areas while on the rotisserie. That will surely cause alignment issues. Also, when doing final alignment of panels you want to on the wheels/suspension with engine in etc.
Click to expand...

The only thing I had to replace while on the rotis was a lower Q panel. Nothing structural. Everything else is solid. I won't try to put any doors, panels, etc. back on until everything is back on the floor.
 
For the Raptor I would sand really good, epoxy prime and then shoot the raptor after the epoxy has flashed.
 
4spdragtop said:
I'm thinking of using Raptor on underside of my cuda. Floor pan is AMD, trunk pan too. Still has edp coating. Do you know if you can scuff and spray? I see the tech sheet says to prime. Would scuffing exp be good?
Oh I looked into Linex. Fyi It is expensive, needs to be bare metal, and primed with their product due to high heat for their topcoating. $2000 up here in Canada.
Thanks
Steve
Click to expand...

I am looking for something definitely NOT high tech. I sure as hell can't afford $2K for the underside of the car. As I scraped and cleaned the undercarriage, I would sandblast a 3'x3' patch, clean it up and spray some primer on it to prevent flash rusting. Then, the next time I had time (and the weather was right), I would do another patch. So, I've ended up with a literal patchwork of rattle can primer on the bottom of the car. I really don't want to have to do any additional surface prep before applying some kind of undercoat and color. The car had a layer of tar-looking undercoat when I got it; it was absolute hell to get it all off so I could inspect and/or repair.
 
I agree, I'm in same boat. Linex is way too pricey. I cant justify spending that amount of $$. I plan on doing same as you with rattle can primer. I might use rustoleum or Raptor. The Raptor kit is $200. I think its 4 cans, enough to do an a body.
charliec said:
I am looking for something definitely NOT high tech. I sure as hell can't afford $2K for the underside of the car. As I scraped and cleaned the undercarriage, I would sandblast a 3'x3' patch, clean it up and spray some primer on it to prevent flash rusting. Then, the next time I had time (and the weather was right), I would do another patch. So, I've ended up with a literal patchwork of rattle can primer on the bottom of the car. I really don't want to have to do any additional surface prep before applying some kind of undercoat and color. The car had a layer of tar-looking undercoat when I got it; it was absolute hell to get it all off so I could inspect and/or repair.
Click to expand...
 
I used tintable raptor

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retroron said:
I used Lizard Skin, company is in Houston TX
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OK, I'm revisiting this question and I'm just about ready to pull the trigger on some kind of corrosion undercoating/sound deadening/heat shield. I'm curious to know about your experience with Lizard Skin. They have quite a bit of info on their web site, so I anticipate receiving some help from them; I live near Houston.

What areas did you coat...inside and out? What about door panels...did you remove the glass and go inside the door? What kind of prep did you have to do? (They suggest an automotive primer coat before you start laying down their product.) Did you do sound and heat coating? How has it held up?
 
I used Transtar quick drying rubberized under coating, works great. Gallon cans about $69
 
I used Herculiner, took about 2 gallons, $140. Of course lots of labor to clean prep, and I used a gallon of Rust-Oleum metal primer, I think that cost me 25$ at Menards.

I made the mistake of doing it while my car was on wheels, laying on my back... Had to shave my head I got so much in my hair. Was half black for a month, unfortunately not from the waste down. .

I'd recommend doing that before pulling off the rotisserie for sure.

Just another option. And cheap.

In the pic I had to grind some off to repair the frame rails where the upper shock mount sits. It now has chassis saver as I was using some elsewhere. I fought for every inch trying to remove that Herculiner. Made me a believer.

20190729_172437.jpg
 
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