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I have installed Hotchkis stuff on some GM cars and it was always top quality stuff, fit and worked well. I dont have any experience with their mopar stuff but would expect the same. You should be able to do it cheaper but you will be surprised how fast it all adds up when you replace everything.

Headman tight tube shortys fit great and no ground clearance issues. They install real easy to. http://www.jegs.com/i/Hedman/500/78500/10002/-1

I would use rubber on LCAs and i would reinforce them whlie they are out.

That coilover kit may be ok but u would need more info like the camber curve, bump steer, ect.. If you are on a budget i would pass on the kit. On a budget i would put offset bushings in the stock upper arms and just rebuild the rest stock. The first upgades i would make are 1" or larger...

I wouldnt run any less than 1" bars unless it is a drag car.

This method doesnt make sense to me but i may be missing something. Isnt the point of the subframe connectors to counteract chassis flex. If all the weight of the car is on the wheels you are technically flexing the chassis. You need to get all the forces acting on the car neutral and the car...

I am on a very tight budget and the panhard was free.

I am running a 3 link but these sites should help and there are a ton of books out there to help with the setup. I will have spent less then $500 on mine when its done.The first book i would read is Chassis engineering by Herb adams. http://www.racetec.cc/shope/ you can download a 3link and...

You want the least amount of stuff on the car as possible. Ideal would be a bare chassis. The engine and rear are heavy and will cause the body to twist if not supported correctly. I support the car on the frame right in front of the t-bar mount and at the front spring perch in the rear. Level...

What is your budget? You could go with an RMS or Magnumforce front end and sit it any height you want. If you turn the bars down you need lower profile bumpstops to keep the ride quality. The drop spindles are the best way to do it cheap. The biggest concern will be oil pan clearence I recommend...

this should be all the info you need http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php/topic,862.0.html

You can drive it to the alignment shop with the camber the way it is. You need to get the toe set so the tires dont drag down the road. You can get it close with a tape measure.

The C body adjusters will fit and are worth installing. I am run the solid sleeves that are avaliable from pure vision and I could tell a difference first time I drove with them installed. The steering just feels better. The factory sleeves must flex a lot.

Check this out http://www.bigblockdart.com/index.php/topic,6190.0.html