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i used the painless, the steering column wiring schematic was the hardest part of getting it right. I wound up getting and I didit column during the wiring process and that made it a lot easier... the only reason why I did the I didit column was mine was one of the model cars they used to...

moparblood, The painless was not too bad actually. I took my time and went slow. I think when all was said and done I had 2 wires flipped around and they were for lights...so really it was nothing bad. I think I had about 20 hours or so into the wiring.

when I was looking for a 76 harness, I could not find one anywhere..ended up having to rewire the car with the Painless kit.

the painless kit took me about a weekend to do from front to back. I purchased a lot of new connectors to keep from using the old ones..so there was about another 50-100 on top of the kit for connectors, and not all wires are included in the kit.

I have done the painless kit but did a the standard mopar alternator, one blue one green wire and the power wire. I know when I hooked mine up I kept poping fuses on the main harness. I found it to be the big wire from the alternator to the battery and the one from the alternator to the...

Try disconnect the main power wire that goes from the alternator to the battery. My New alternator did not come with the proper spacer on it and when I connected it to the alternator without the proper insulating spacer it would blow the fuseable link every time. Just a thought.

I put the painless in my dart, it was not to difficult but it is wired for a GM Ignition switch. I went with a ididit steering column so that made it very easy as theirs is wired for GM switches as well. If you are comfortable with wiring and wiring practices then its not that bad...Mine fired...

that doesnt sound right, amp meters measure current though something and not at a point. your idea is how you would wire a volt meter and not an amp meter. Instructions can be found here on how to wire it. http://www.autometer.com/resources/index/instructional

thank you i will order some.

does anyone know where you can find the large male pins to go in the ignition column connectors. The white connector I believe the pins are a .125 bullet style pin. I looked a molex's website but could not find them. thank you

had them in my jeep liberty, they did do a little better on the gas mileage but they fouled out on me in less than 3 months so I went back to the good only copper plugs.

I already an aftermarket dash, so I am going to do away with the Ammetter, and I already have a volt meter for it. I plan on doing away with the ballast resistor as well. Thanks for the tip about the kill switch I might have to look into that.

Started retiring the dart today with the painless molar kit. Only got as far as the front lights before I had to stop. So far it does not seem that bad I have the destructions and the wiring book for the dart. Anything I should worry about? I did some searching already and sounds like normal...

Have you checked to see if you have fuel going to the carb? just found on my 76 that the rubber line from the tank to the hard line was bad and giving it issues starting.

finally figured it out today with the help from a friend. I thought initially it was something electrical, but it turns out the soft fuel line that goes from the tank to the body fuel line was collapsing under pressure. The fuel filter would slowly fill up at first, and then it did not and...

the car has been running for a couple months now, so I know the timing and fuel are good. The fuel has stabilizer in it and its less than 3-4 months old. I do not think its flooded, I pump the pedal once to set the choke and then try turning it over. Ill check the coil voltage this weekend...

tried the new plugs tonight and still no start. I think it has something to do with the round connector...I am going to change the dash out tomorrow and see.

ill pick up some new plugs tomorrow and try it out.

I layed the plug against a header and had the wife turn the car over. No problem seeing the spark.. Looked nice and strong and the plugs looked wet. The fan was turning over as the engine did so i know the timing chain is still in one piece. Battery is fully charged and showing 12.5 volts...

the factory wiring, the plug going to the back of the original gauge pod. I had an ammeter but it was the shut style and I did not connect it back up. its wiring was part of the round plug connector that I just left unplugged. It cranks with the key, but does not catch. the plugs have about...

I recently changed over to all autometer gauges on my dash. The car started once then died and will not start. I have fuel and spark on the engine. The one thing I did not do was connect to the 12v and the ground on the original wiring group. I pulled the power from the fuse panel instead...

why run a wire all the way back to your battery, get some good wire taps and splice the wires at the fuse block. by good wire taps, I mean the ones that encase the wire and then a spade connector is used for your tap.

the original gauge says alternator under it and goes from -40 to plus 40 so I think is an alternator gauge.

they are unhooked and I have power inside the car right now.. the interior lights come on and the car starts.. so I am thinking I had the shunt style.

so with them unhooked if I do have the shunt style then I should still have power to the interior correct?

My dart is a 76 sport and from what I can tell it has a shunt style amp gauge in it. There was only small wires (18 gauge or so) running to the connector that the gauge was connected to..there were no 10 gauge wires. Anyways I am in the process of replacing the gauges with autometer gauges...

Thank you, turns out it was the socket, though I did get two heavy duty flashers too. funny thing is it was a gm piece that fits the dart.

On my dart the driverside turn signals work great, the passanger sides seem to go very slow. I have replaced the timer and checked the grounds and they all seem to be good. What else could it be?