another no start question

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blk00rt

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I recently changed over to all autometer gauges on my dash. The car started once then died and will not start. I have fuel and spark on the engine.
The one thing I did not do was connect to the 12v and the ground on the original wiring group. I pulled the power from the fuse panel instead. Does this need to be connected to start or should I look some where else for the no start problem?
thank you in advance.
 
I have no idea what you are referring to. What do you mean "original wiring group."

You talking about power for the new gauges? If so that should be OK.

What did you do about the original ammeter connections? I assume the car cranks using the key?

If you have spark during crank, it should run if it's getting fuel, if the spark is hot enough, and if the plugs are not fouled.
 
67Dart273 said:
I have no idea what you are referring to. What do you mean "original wiring group."

You talking about power for the new gauges? If so that should be OK.

What did you do about the original ammeter connections? I assume the car cranks using the key?

If you have spark during crank, it should run if it's getting fuel, if the spark is hot enough, and if the plugs are not fouled.
Click to expand...

the factory wiring, the plug going to the back of the original gauge pod. I had an ammeter but it was the shut style and I did not connect it back up. its wiring was part of the round plug connector that I just left unplugged.

It cranks with the key, but does not catch. the plugs have about 10 miles on them. It was running for about 2-3 minutes and just died and would not restart. It gave no indication that anything was wrong, no sounds, or anything.
 
OK, the new cluster should have nothing to do with the no start

How did you check spark?

VERY important to understand..........

If you check spark when jumpering the start relay, you don't have the same conditions as when using the key, because

"In run" the ignition buss goes through the ballast resistor, and THIS LINE GOES COLD during crank

"in crank" USING THE KEY the coil is directly supplied 12V from a separate contact in the ignition switch.

What does the spark look like? Good and strong? where/ how did you check it?

Have you checked the plugs? wet/ dry?
 
67Dart273 said:
OK, the new cluster should have nothing to do with the no start

How did you check spark?

VERY important to understand..........

If you check spark when jumpering the start relay, you don't have the same conditions as when using the key, because

"In run" the ignition buss goes through the ballast resistor, and THIS LINE GOES COLD during crank

"in crank" USING THE KEY the coil is directly supplied 12V from a separate contact in the ignition switch.

What does the spark look like? Good and strong? where/ how did you check it?

Have you checked the plugs? wet/ dry?
Click to expand...

I layed the plug against a header and had the wife turn the car over. No problem seeing the spark.. Looked nice and strong and the plugs looked wet. The fan was turning over as the engine did so i know the timing chain is still in one piece. Battery is fully charged and showing 12.5 volts without a load on it. thought at first it might be a ballast resistor so I put in a new one..when this did not work I checked for spark. The carb is a newer reman one from holley that I had been using before, I know its getting gas the fuel filter is a clear style one and shows a decent amount of fuel in it.
 
With that round connector not connected, you have no turn signal, oil pressure or high beam indicators on your dash. Unless, of course, you've ditched the entire stock gauge cluster and replaced those indicators or decided you don't need them.
 
Good point. I believe high beam indicators are required by law
 
blk00rt said:
ill pick up some new plugs tomorrow and try it out.
Click to expand...
tried the new plugs tonight and still no start. I think it has something to do with the round connector...I am going to change the dash out tomorrow and see.
 
Nope. Nothing there has anything to do with ignition

Find out how STRONG the spark really is.

Hook your meter to the coil + terminal and to the battery stud on the starter relay and crank the engine USING THE KEY and NOT by jumpering the start relay. You are measuring the amount of drop in the harness, and should read a very low voltage, NOT OVER .5 volts

Next leave the meter hooked to coil positive, and move the other probe to ground. Crank again. You should have AT LEAST 10.5V and in NO case below 10V

Next check the spark. If you have two people, have one operate the key.

Remove the coil wire from the coil and use a grounded probe like a small screwdriver, grounded with a clip lead, and hold it near the top of the coil tower. Crank the engine. You should get a MINIMUM of 3/8" nice hot blue spark, and many times more like 1/2" spark.

Are you SURE about the condition of the fuel? Has the car been parked "awhile?"

You tried a little KNOWN GOOD fuel down the carb throat? Any chance the carb is flooding and pumping way too much fuel down the engine? RECHECK the plugs, new or old, for wet fouling. With the plugs out, crank the engine a few times to clear the cylinders.

How do you know the timing is correct?
 
67Dart273 said:
Nope. Nothing there has anything to do with ignition

Find out how STRONG the spark really is.

Hook your meter to the coil + terminal and to the battery stud on the starter relay and crank the engine USING THE KEY and NOT by jumpering the start relay. You are measuring the amount of drop in the harness, and should read a very low voltage, NOT OVER .5 volts

Next leave the meter hooked to coil positive, and move the other probe to ground. Crank again. You should have AT LEAST 10.5V and in NO case below 10V

Next check the spark. If you have two people, have one operate the key.

Remove the coil wire from the coil and use a grounded probe like a small screwdriver, grounded with a clip lead, and hold it near the top of the coil tower. Crank the engine. You should get a MINIMUM of 3/8" nice hot blue spark, and many times more like 1/2" spark.

Are you SURE about the condition of the fuel? Has the car been parked "awhile?"

You tried a little KNOWN GOOD fuel down the carb throat? Any chance the carb is flooding and pumping way too much fuel down the engine? RECHECK the plugs, new or old, for wet fouling. With the plugs out, crank the engine a few times to clear the cylinders.

How do you know the timing is correct?
Click to expand...
the car has been running for a couple months now, so I know the timing and fuel are good. The fuel has stabilizer in it and its less than 3-4 months old. I do not think its flooded, I pump the pedal once to set the choke and then try turning it over. Ill check the coil voltage this weekend when someone else is home to give me a hand.
 
finally figured it out today with the help from a friend. I thought initially it was something electrical, but it turns out the soft fuel line that goes from the tank to the body fuel line was collapsing under pressure. The fuel filter would slowly fill up at first, and then it did not and that is how we found it.
 
Thanks for the update, Rob. I just hate it when I'm following a thread and it just peters out!

ATB And HAPPY NEW YEAR!

BC
 
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