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forged crank internally balanced 340's use neutral flywheels 73 cast crank externally balanced 340's require the correct 340 flywheel

here are a couple of good links first the slantsix.org 4speed tech http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm next the bigblockdart.com long tail 4speed in an A-body conversion bracket link http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/abconv.shtml

same length as a 727 NOT same as a 904 and you can make an adapter to move the shifter location I will look for the link

which is better and why? the early style pilot bushing or the later style pilot bearing would using a new bearing for a magnum instead of a bushing on an early 4speed 318 combo be an upgrade? does it matter? thoughts, opinions, speculation?

very cool thread 5 stars and a thanks for the great quality clear pic's

you will need a big block bell housing then you need to have the hole opened up to fit the O/D trans for a stock 383 an iron case O/D trans should be plenty strong

when all the levers on the shifter are centered there is a hole that you need to place a pin in to lock them in place then make sure all the levers on the trans are in the neutral position next adjust and then install the shifter rods

with the price of gas a nice overdrive 4 speed out of a late model F-body could be a good idea, same as an A-body 4 speed just has a nice MPG boosting overdrive 4th gear

few helpful articles on 4speeds http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm http://www.darkside.ca/a-4spd.asp and a few places to get parts http://www.brewersperformance.com/ http://www.passonperformance.com/

http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm

very very cool info, thanks for posting it

its not a /6 vs V8 thing, its an early vs late thing, sometime around 1970 they changed the leverage ratio to decrease pedal effort due to complaints from people saying it was to hard (yea /6 and V8 use different Z-bar)

a helpful video on rebuilding a hurst comp+ shifter, it will also help with rebuilding the factory shifter YouTube - Hurst Competition Plus 4 speed shifter Rebuild Part 1 YouTube - Hurst Competition Plus 4 speed shifter Rebuild part 2a

http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=TS636

I think the best way would be to place it back in the chevy from whence it came and never look back

there are some really good pics on this thread if you scroll down http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=131539

actually the comp plus was a variation of the stock shifter not the other way around kind of like saying a valiant was a variation of the barracuda

comp+ was never offered from the factory only the standard hurst shifter was offered although they look very similar the date can be determined by the numbers stamped on the side of the transmission case

What do you think this Inland shifter fits? nothing

some more info http://www.darkside.ca/a-4spd.asp

not yet, sorry, I have the early pedals here for my car, just haven't had a chance to get down to compare them to the set in mischiefdart's 70

I will take my 66 and earlier pedals and compare them to a set of 1970 pedals, although I am 98% sure they are different

http://www.moparmusclemagazine.com/techarticles/drivetrain/40618_a_833_manual_transmission_swap/photo_06.html

there are internal balance (neutral), and external balance

that is an A-body trans, the O/D trans uses a different bellhousing, http://www.darkside.ca/a-4spd.asp http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm http://www.brewersperformance.com/ http://www.passonperformance.com/ floor hump also here http://www.autobodyspecialt.com/

OD 4 speed is good $650 is bad

63 to 66 http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CPA63A 67 to 69 http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CPA67A 70 to 72 http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CPA70A 73 to 74 http://www.brewersperformance.com/proddetail.asp?prod=CPA73A 75 to 76...

if you have two different shifter rods moving together and they are not touching it is a problem with the shifter, you could have something stuck in the mechanism like a small stone or twig or the grease could be old and turned to glue causing one linkage to drag on another

sounds like the shifter needs to be cleaned and rebuilt or a shift rod is hooked up wrong http://www.slantsix.org/articles/4-speeds/ODA833fourspeed1.htm http://www.darkside.ca/a-4spd.asp YouTube - Hurst Competition Plus 4 speed shifter Rebuild Part 1 YouTube - Hurst Competition...

had one in my 66 mustang, replaced it with a comp+ and never looked back