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Looks like an Oldsmobile distributor with the gear pulled off.

Forget trying to fix it yourself. you pay money for something it should be right, send it back.

Take a look at the teeth on the starter and the ring gear on your converter/flywheel. Could be the starter gear not coming out far enough to make good contact and grinding up the teeth. The rams/vans/dakota's have the same basic starter so just tell them it's for a '96 ram 1500 5.2 auto.

How to Set the Ignition Timing on Your Car's Engine - YouTube

Same electronics inside as the Unilites and a number of people on here run them without any issues, myself included. Easy to swap out even if it ever went bad and you don't even have to pull the dizzy. If it's going to be a daily driver and you are that worried about it then just order one up...

First thing would be to get yourself a factory service manual. From my quick search you do have a small cylindrical relay for the ignition and a crank position sensor. No old style control box though. Best thing is to get out a multi-meter or test light and start figuring what isn't getting...

Have seen weak spark caused by a loose connection but also had on my '71 a bad ballast resistor that would many times happen to just catch a spark right when you let off the key. Being new to mopar and cars at the time it had me going for a while till my shop teacher told me to jump it and the...

Do you have spark under cranking?

Yup most of the times I have seen a vehicle overcharging it ends up being the regulator. Test it like 67dart273 said to be sure. That's the crappy part about a lot of "new" stuff these days. Crap parts coming to us from around the globe.

probably the switch or the wire for the ign. run side. use a test light to see where you don't have any power in run position.

Coming from someone who used to sell them just about every day I can tell you they used to be excellent batteries. After Johnson Controls took them over we started getting a bunch of defective ones back. Back in the day I had one that went between three vehicles and it lasted about ten years...

Oh so true.

I have had luck before just using my air compressor to blast some air in it then using a dry lubricant like lock-ease.

For sure don't hook that up with the stock wiring, as Dan stated you stock electrical will not handle that alt. If not a fire then at least the bulkhead connector would probably melt. If you do decide to use it then you will have to upgrade the charge wire and ground one of the field terminals...

turn the ignition switch to the run position and check for power at the ballast resistor.

X4

Yeah check to make sure its tight and also take a look at the flexplate and the bolts. Clicking might be something like a cracked flexplate or backed off bolt.

This is what I have. Super easy 3 wires to hook up, no box and works using the old female socket type wires if you want a more stock look. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/MAA-4757901/ also look into something like the pertronix kit if your distributor is ok otherwise.

They can be off. I would test the meter on another car and see how it compares. I thought my old Sears one may have been off but when we tested the car using my buddies snap-on it was the same. 20 year old meter and still accurate.

One thing you may want to check anytime before you use the meter is to make sure it is zeroed out. With it off you can adjust the needle to zero it with the screw in the middle at the bottom.

:thumbrig:

One thing that comes to mind is they may have let the starter hang by the cables. seen it happen a number of times. Remove the connections and make sure the lugs at the starter are tight.

Most parts house rebuilt ones are the same so just get one with a lifetime warranty. Also make sure they bench test it before you leave.

Sounds like the bendix unit inside the starter is taking a dump. Its the unit inside that throws the gear out to engage the flywheel/flexplates teeth. New starter or if you got the skills rebuild yours. While you have it out though look at the ring gear teeth to make sure none of them are broken...

If you want to swap out to the later mini starter they started about mid 90's and where in Ram trucks, vans, Dakotas, etc. A couple variations over the years but they interchange. Also make sure your engine ground is good.

Honestly if your looking at something in the standard lead/acid battery price range most of them are made by the same company. Johnson Controls. They pretty much bought out everyone over the last few years so I look for the highest cca and reserve capacity in my size and budget. Places like...

Ill send you 5 bucks if you post a video of you touching it while running? :shaking2: :shock:

12v light.

no its easy just a test light is about all you need.

1. rev limiter on the L 2. no 3. not anything you are going to get a seat of the pants difference out of but will help.