Ok, Engine starts to fire then quits when key is released.

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Kevin Jonker

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I read about this before but can't find it. It seeems like ignition is turning off when key is released. Is there anyway to verify this as a bad ignition switch? Of course this is upon initial fireup. Help!
 
bad ballast resister
it is bypassed when the key is in the "start" position
replace it and you should be fine
get 2 and keep one as a spare in the glove box
 
I tried a new ballast resistor and same thing. Could the switch just be bad? It was fine 2.5 years ago when i fired it up last. If it is the switch, do the local auto parts have them or NOS/USED only? It is a 1968 fish.
 
had that and it's usually the ballast resistor but one time the wire broke on the
connector on the firewall. if I remember correctly mine has 3 connectors on the
firewall and I think it was the middle one that had the wire that went to "ignition on"
wire.
 
If the signals and wipers work when the ignition switch is in the on position the switch is probably OK leading you to the harness wiring/connections.
If you have to hunt a sweet spot to get the accessories on , Bad ignition switch.
 
check the wires going to the resister for a short, you also may have gotten a bad new resister, checking for voltage to the resister and coil with the key switch in different positions will help determine where the problem lies, if there is voltage to one side of the resister (the key switch side) and not to the other side (the coil side) it is a bad resister if there is no voltage to either side with the key in the run position it is a short or bad ignition switch
 
turn the ignition switch to the run position and check for power at the ballast resistor.
 
It is nothing "up to" the ignition switch. It is either just that section (the run section) of the ignition switch, or the connector on the back, or the bulkhead connector, or a broken wire in that path. Should be blue

Or, you could have a defective ballast. You can try bypassing it for a few seconds to see if it's the trouble.

Do ya have a meter or 12V test lamp?
 
I will try the suggestions after I buy a new MSD Digital 6 box... A friend fried it by hooking a lead from the pos. side of coil to battery, thinking we could bypass the switch.... Also I am hoping it didn't fry the MSD adjustable timing control also.... Having one of those real bad car experiences right now.
 
Kevin Jonker said:
I read about this before but can't find it. It seeems like ignition is turning off when key is released. Is there anyway to verify this as a bad ignition switch? Of course this is upon initial fireup. Help!
Click to expand...

With the key in the run position check for voltage at the positive connection of the coil. If you don't have voltage there it's typically the ballast resistor. You can as a test unplug the wires to the ballast resistor and jump across them with a wire. Try to start the car and if it starts your resistor is bad. DO NOT LEAVE IT LIKE THAT FOR A LONG PERIOD OF TIME AS YOU COULD BURN OPEN YOUR COIL. The ignition switch could be bad or the bulkhead connector could have a pin that has pushed out or is corroded. Good Luck! I hope that this helps.
 
Kevin Jonker said:
I will try the suggestions after I buy a new MSD Digital 6 box... A friend fried it by hooking a lead from the pos. side of coil to battery, thinking we could bypass the switch.... Also I am hoping it didn't fry the MSD adjustable timing control also.... Having one of those real bad car experiences right now.
Click to expand...

Gosh it's the worst when several things go wrong. We did that on my car before and it worked fine to test it but I just have the stock coil.
 
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