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You can see its right above the heat riser as it goes into the intake. You may not have enough meat to hold a stud.

That would fix it, but I would also braze it as well. You have to be carful if you drill it deeper, you may hit the water jacket.

I would think busted rings pistons coming out more than going back in. It depends on how big the ridge is which you will be able to see once you stone hone it. Then again any ridge will not seal rings. Mopar blocks are noted for being very hard and wear resistant unless they were run with dirty...

I agree there are way to do it, all are expensive. I don’t believe this is the way the OP had in mind.

Anything is possible says mr sawzall. The cool factor is over the top. Just be aware it won’t handle nimble like your 273.

Id use a stone hone. That way you can see the undercut below the ridge. You can rent these at auto parts stores. Ball hone is more for light freshening a race engine that has a good bore.

It happens and I’m not doing it. Just thought I would let you all know.

Also unfortunate is the variance of 93 pump gas from station to station in any area. My buddy hauls gas and on occasion will dump regular into the premium tank if after topping off the regular tank and there is gas left in the truck. They drive that truck till every station on their route has...

Unfortunately the only true way to figure out your static compression ratio is by cc’ing the head combustion chambers and pistons in the hole which would require pulling the heads. Then with your cam specs you can figure out your dynamic compression ratio at wallace racing compression calculator.

Cool, but now he knows what one looks like and this one comes with instructions (I’m a dumbass and instructions would come in handy for me).

This shows how it is done in detail by the machinist that does Big Chiefs and Daemons race engines using a non conventional align boring machine with specific purpose tooling and fixture-ing.

I was both, old school and the cnc wave. I started out machining in the 70’s and finished my career in2021.

Wait or find someone with an automotive line boring machine, preferably a newer machine. This is something you don’t want to mess up. Nothing against your friend, but I ran a boring bar for 30 years. You need special tooling, like a boring tool that has support at the opposite end of the...

I don’t have one, my engine builder does. Here is one summit racing sells. The idea is the shoulder on the tool drives against the top rim of the plug not hitting the bottom of plug that would change the outside diameter and lessen the press fit. They have to go in tight. It’s almost like...

I did, twice, same plug cause I didn’t know what I was doing. You need the special tool to pound them in. I used a socket, pounding on the center of the plug. You need to pound on the top rim or it will collapse the sides of the plug and not have enough press fit to stay in no matter what you...

Yes I start in the middle and work my way out. If it takes more than 5 ft. Lbs. , I would be surprised. You just need to compress the gasket some and bolts tight enough to not come loose. Actually I have those t handle fasteners, hand tight. Hand tight, how tight is that? Not much.

I silicone the gasket into the valve cover. Then just snug the bolts down with a nut driver. They dont need to be that tight. If you overtighten them they will leak.

Braze the busted chunk and a stud into the hole and don’t look back.

Might want to look into a prepped thermoquad. The larger one off a big block hp car. The smaller primaries will give great throttle response and better gas mileage on the street and good performance when you get into the secondaries.

Yes j bars if you go the fender well header route as inner aprons are structural. You’ll weaken them saw header exit holes.

Definitely or a 9 1/4 out of a pickup truck. Either or you will need to have it shortened. I would also install a US Car Tool stiffening kit, all of it and torque boxes front and back. Probably going to have to install a roll bar or cage when your et crosses that threshold required at the...

Most the guys on here have good things to say about Oregon cams.

At first I was thinking thats alot of duration for a street car but those big strokers eat up duration real well from what I hear. Since you are using indy parts, have you called them to see what they recommend?

How much money does one put into porting heads like those?

Yeah RRR, that does sound like a good cam or I would use something that compares to a street hemi grind.

Pull your head, don’t muck it up any further. I’m a tool and die maker, I’ve cut out lots of bolts out. I’ve cut out broken taps. Take my advise, there is learning curve to it. Take it to a machine shop that has some one with experience.

If dave at hughes recommend this cam it’s probably a good cam for your combo. If you had more compression especially with your aluminum heads, you could go a couple bigger but that would also require a bit more converter in your 727.

You must have talked to the wrong sales rep. They should know these answers at summit. Call back and request a mopar specialist.

Looks like aluminum heads on it to me. I’d throw 5k at it and see if it sticks.