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Do not despair yet! Let us know what the guy with the porta power says. If he is experienced with it he should be able to give you some good advise. C

How do the bottom edges of the door align with the rocker panels, especially at the front of the door? It looks like the drivers door may need to come *out* away from the body at the front pillar. This would allow you to shift the left fender out also. Another measurement to take is a cross -...

I had both of my cars hanging on a rotisserie for years also without any issues. I suppose if it were hung by the inner fenders rather than frame rail it *might* do damage. In what order did you assemble the sheet metal? Have you hung the front components and grill yet? How do the fender to...

By sleeve, you are probably referring to the bearing race. From the back side to the front side: seal, inner bearing, race. Rotor. Race, outer bearing, washer, nut (may be a castellated cap) cotter key, grease cap. C

While you are looking for loose, also look for shiny. If a part is moving where it should be tight, you may be able to spot a shiny spot resulting from the shifting back & to. C

Can you get a number off the gearbox? If you found out the donor for that I bet you would find your application. C

Cardone used to be good stuff. The last few years it seems like what I've used has either been junk out of the box, or hasn't lasted very long. P/S pumps and brake calipers... C

I am not familiar with the term "spring sliders"... C

What are you working on? One & one half inch sounds like a heap to me. C

Here is a link to get you started. Please go to the magazine article that is referenced and have a go at it! http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/showthread.php?t=154994&highlight=rear+sway+bar To follow the above thread to conclusion, I don't really have a comparison to go from. My Duster...

If you have been driving it, and all the suspension components are worn out - just replacing them with new is going to be a huge improvement. Don't forget the rear suspension. Some new leaf spring bushings and most likely the shackle bushings are shot. You might also consider adding a leaf...

Wow, an inch sure seems like a lot. Check to make sure the shock doesn't hit the gas tank - or do you have a fuel cell in the trunk? C

I agree, thanks for all the explanations. C

Good info 72blu. I will have to look around their website. When they compare and rate the boost as firm, firmer, firmest (so to speak) is that saying that the firmest (stage 3) may be close to a modern rack & pinion power steering set up? Call me a wuss if you want, but I just drove about...

Located that info. It is called "Star Network - vehicle information report" that the dealer ran when I went in for a part one day. It ran to 5 pages! Anyhow, I had an'88 Gran Fury cop car. It was listed with a code "SBB, Quick Ratio - Firm Feel Power Steering". I think it is 3.5 turns lock...

Do not tighten stuff up until you have the engine in and full weight on the suspension. You need a FSM, do a search cause there are links to free copies available... C

My ps setup came from an '88 Gran Fury cop car. Seems like the specs on it listed the steering setup as a Firm Feel unit. I'll try to find that spec sheet and confirm this later. C

Which core support do you have? If it is for the 22" radiator this would be an excellent time to upgrade to the 26". C

I used 1/2" Al plate and got some grade 8 bolts to use. Good catch on the drive shaft. I was having one shortened so this wasn't an issue for me and I didn't think about it. C

I also used a 1/2" spacer block. Looks good, and no problems from a suspension standpoint. C

I am not sure how successful you will be in finding a "new" center link. Do you have power steering on the car? C

Hmmm, doing it on the cheap are we? Here is a link to an article for a cheap rear sway bar upgrade. I did this on my '72 Duster. In fact, I used the tranny, driveshaft and rear axle out of the M body Gran Fury I had. http://www.cloudfactory.org/~josh/barracuda/rearswaytech.html You need...

Please post up some pics for us. Interesting that the shop wanted to adjust the front up with your torsion bars and then add air shocks which would pick the back end way up - and driving the front end back down... C

Shoot a PM to RustyRatRod, he can give you some specifics... C

I did the same as Del, only my extra leaf came from an '88 M body. Same results; a little extra ride height and good firm suspension. Since the car sets level, that extra lift probably brought it up into original specs. C

I blew out 2 shocks and bent the leaf spring that was in the car. Huh??? And, how did you move the rear up 1/4"? Were there some spacers installed between the front spring bracket and the frame? Your wheel and tire looks pretty centered in there, making me think there was. I don't know...

It might be a simple swap. You will just have to drop the front bracket to see what you have. C

Did you get the front bracket with the '74 springs? A bolt can be had at any good hardware store, Lowes, Ace, etc. Just need a grade 8 bolt & nut. Since the springs in the car are Super Stock replacements, it might already have been switched to the larger bolt size... C

Yes, but... If you use the main leaf you will need to change out (or drill out) the front bracket. The '74 uses a larger front eye bushing with a larger diameter bolt. C

A lot of times I check this information by going to the auto parts store website. In this case, I checked www.AdvanceAutoParts.com. Moog "exact fit" parts for tie rod ends and sleeves are the same part numbers for '71 & '73. So, for Moog parts, not just the same length, but the same part... C