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There is another rubber line to replace also. It connects the steel line on the body to the steel line on the rear axle. C

Thanks for posting up these findings. C

Year One has the front kit for about $70; or you could make your own. https://www.yearone.com/Product/chrysler-a-body/qra16ts C

Just loosen the brake line with a good flare nut wrench before taking the wheel cylinder bolts out. C

Was it originally a power brake car, or did you change it over? C

I would replace them. In the grand scheme, those line are pretty cheap. Brake fluids absorbs moisture. The outside of the lines may look fine but you can't see the inside. How much time, money and hassle will you go through if a piece of rust cuts loose and causes a leaky seal? How much...

Yes, SS lines are tough to get sealed. After using them once I wouldn't use them again. C

Here is the Advance part for a '72: http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_brake-hydraulic-hose-tru-torque_3653536-p?navigationPath=L1*14921%7CL2*15008 C

When I put new pads on my Dakota I used the Wagner thermo-quiet or something like that. A lot less brake dust! I can't tell if it stops any better. I haven't been in a situation where I needed that feature, and since I never was with the factory pads I still wouldn't know. In any event...

I removed that braket that comes attached to the flexible hose, looks better removed. C

When did you change out the master cylinder? Did it act any differently after you made that change? Was it new or a rebuilt? Does the car continue to slow down even if you give it some gas? C

My bet is that if you go there, you will also be replacing the hard lines back there. C

Damn! Thanks for clearing that up though. C

Like clhyer says.....just repair what you have if it's the stock '74 type brakes. Replacement parts are readily available at your local auto parts store. The factory sway bar is not an issue. Cudamark, the '74 Duster would have front mounted calipers. I have read many times that the front...

If you are looking for the easiest, cheapest and "decent" fix for your car; simply complete what you have. You would need a new caliper & rotor for the right side - relatively cheap at any parts house. Same with the brake hoses. You might even get by with the existing rotor by having it...

Try a company called Detroit Muscle Technology. They sell a lot on ebay. Sorry, I do not have a web site for them. I bought from them and they have a good rep. C

A more common problem than many realize. Dead soft copper is a pain in the butt to stamp, and burrs easily. Harder copper will stamp nicely, but it does not deform to seal properly. So, when someone goes to China for washers, they ask for cheap. Half the time the purchasing agent does not...

Thanks guys. C

Thanks for your response. I have already tightened it with the old "wrench in wrench" trick. I guess my next step is to disassemble and check for those imperfections and look for a new set of washers. Thanks again, C

Good morning folks, I have put new calipers and brake lines on my Duster. One side continues to weep a little brake fluid at the line to caliper connection. Yes, the copper washer are there, you can see them both (one between line & caliper, one between the bolt head and the line. I have...

Those look super:thumblef: What did you paint them with? Have you had any experience with that paint to guess how it might hold up? C

Use this as a lesson. You don't get rid of the old parts until the new ones are matched up and installed! On new parts you don't mess up the packing or throw away the receipt until the new part is matched up and installed. On used parts you don't toss out the old or dispose of packing &...

Pics of the intermediate cable. First shot is looking at the tensioner located to the right of the transmission crossmember under the passenger floor, looking forward. Second shot is the same tensioner, looking rearward. Third shot is attaching the intermediate cable to the rear cable. HTH C

Here are a few pics. I may need to make more that one post to get them all in. First pics are of the front cable, from inside the car, routing it thru the firewall, across the front framerail, thru a floors brace to where it connects with the intermediate cable. This is a '72 Duster. C

Here are a couple pics for you. First shot shows how the cable attaches to the eb handle. Second shot shows how this front cable attaches to the intermediate cable, in that area under the drivers seat. Sorry, I do not have one showing the long threaded J hook. Maybe someone else can post a...

My Duster uses one cable to go from the e brake handle inside the car, through the firewall and it ends just beyond a brace below the front seat. The intermediate cable is actually a long loop that goes from one rear cable, up to the tranny and back to the other rear cable. At the tranny it...

That looks super. C

I think I have one if you don't find one local. C

Here is another vote for Fine Lines. Quality stuff, reasonable prices. Call and ask for Bob. C

Thanks for the pics guys, I got it in! C