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Never mind ... Saw the title, was gonna suggest a trip to the urologist! :lol:

I always disconnect the positive cable when back in the garage. Had a garage fire ten years ago, was not car related, but don't want that to even be considered that was the problem. You guys ever been questioned by a fire inspector???

Just repeated the benchtest a few minutes ago. Works like a champ out of the car. Photo and 20 sec film. My son filmed...

The upper harness shows no continuity with ground, reads “I”. My bench test was with 12v to the IVR, with the Chinese sender, was working like it should. Prior to that, I tested only the fuel gauge with three 1.5 AAA batteries from a flashlight and the gauge would move up and down.

And I am showing good continuity in the upper harness, test probes in the bottom plug and the round plug. Tells me the problem has to be in the cluster, yes? Or when the cluster is mounted, maybe somehow, something grounds when installed?

Ok, fuel gauge out again with cardboard over the grounding strip.

This photo is from RT-E’s website also showing it mounted to a negative tracer to the bulb.

The new limiter is attached to a copper trace which is a ground for the bulb. The limiter clears any metal around it as it sits inside the dashboard.

I installed the RT-E regulator and bench tested with a cheap Chinese sender (see my post #13 with a picture). As I moved the sender float, the gauge would move up and down. The back of the fuel gauge has thin dense cardboard to prevent it grounding. It was fit snugly between the posts. I...

“Disconnect the sender wire at the sender and the instrument cluster. Set you meter to ohms and check the wire to ground. If it reads continuity, that wire is shorted.“ I’m not showing continuity, so rear harness is good. “You can separate a harness connector behind the left kick panel and test...

You made that simple and I appreciate that. I did not think of those ideas, thanks!

Well, totally bummed out!!! I have everything together, although the temp gauge is cooked (still trying to find a replacement). Cluster is back in the dash and also attached an auxiliary ground from the pot metal cluster to the dashboard. I also bought brand new circuit boards and installed...

I’ll be posting in the parts wanted section then. Redfish, thanks for all your guidance!

Photo attached

I can see a broken wire inside. It’s pretty fine. I can try to solder together, have nothing to lose.

Well, this is cool...tried bench testing the fuel and temp gauges. I rigged up a new, but crappy, Chinese fuel sender to the back of the circuit board, and I can make the fuel gauge read high, low, in the middle,...whatever! But when I move the sending unit wire to the temp gauge, it’s dead...

The lowest setting on my meter is 200 ohms. (Rats, I just bought it!) I checked resistance from each post to can: “S” to can reads 34.5, “I” is open. I’d love to look inside this temp gauge but not sure how to take it apart. And if I did get inside, not sure if I’d be able to fix it anyways...

Redfish, I was reading a old thread you helped out Mattax. The TEMP GAUGE ohm reading was supposed to be around 20? My temp gauge is out and on the bench. I read mine and show no continuity. Fried maybe?

Got my RT-E stuff Friday, new boards supposed to be delivered tome Tuesday. Joe, what’s with the red wire going to your tach? Looks like you cut and changed out the tach?

I'm a "nuts and bolts" guy, meaning I can touch it and see it. Electricity is abstract to me. I've taught myself to read these old car schematics, and can sorta use a multimeter, but still lack some fundamentals. Anyways, I really appreciate guys like you where this stuff seems natural...

Thanks Redfish. I’ll pull the cluster next weekend. Bay Area temperatures this week are crazy hot, has been in the 100’s the last few days! I’ll wait for a cool down, then post what I find.

Joe: Looks like you also changed the board while you were at it? That arm looks toasted in your photo.

I received my original fuel sender reconditioned by Abbott Instruments in Portland. Wasn’t cheap, but after trying an aftermarket POS, I bit the bullet and it worked great! Some months later, I started the car and noticed the fuel gauge pegged. Eventually, I found the wire leading to the fuel...

I have a Spectra. It read “E” most of the time. It’s only use was to plug the hole in the tank while my original was sent out to be rebuilt. $200 later, I have an overhauled unit that reads correctly.

As did I. Go to Dan, his switch is absolutely perfect.

Before turning in tonight, I decided to do a visual check and found this: Pinched wire going to the “+” side of the coil, right under the valve cover bolt Where I was adjusting the valves. Bumping the starter at the relay didn’t cause the problem, not paying attention putting in one valve...

Wow, lots there to consider and chew on. I’ll tackle that tomorrow, Del. Thanks for the suggestions, I’ll get back to you hopefully tomorrow. Easter weekend, family and friends are calling.

Mattax, with the ignition switch turned to “On”, ammeter dropped to the first line. But when I turned the switch to “Start”, the ammeter pegs out to the negative. I also measured the ballast resistor on both sides. Start side (which goes to the + side of coil): 0v “On”, 2v “Start”. Run side...

I did not change any part prior to the problem. After the problem I did put in a new relay, changed ignition switches (had a spare). I have full 12.6 on both sides of the fusible link, although it gets hot when key is in “Start” position. Also did pull all three big plugs out of the firewall...

I checked voltage in the “push on” wire, only getting about 6V. Is it possible somehow the starter voltage is getting cut back by going thru the ballast resistor?