Can’t get my sparky up

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67DartJeremy

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butte, mt
Hi Everyone,
Working on my 67 Dart with a 360. It ran great when I bought it, but one day the Accel distributor (sat too tall) rubbed a hole in one of the plug wires up against the wiper motor and shorted itself out. The Accel module burned itself out, so I replaced it with a factory style electronic ignition that I purchased from EBay (Richard Erenburg’s EBay store).
The problem I have now is weak spark and the engine runs almost like it has a dead cylinder. Been going through YouTube diagnostic videos. The battery shows 12.35v. When I disconnected the module (4 pin), the coil only has 10v??? Shouldn’t this be 12v, same as the battery? Where am I losing voltage? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
 
First, do you have wiring diagrams/ service manual? If not, go to MyMopar.com, and download the service manual as well as the aftermarket wiring diagrams in the wiring section. THOSE diagrams are not normally as detailed and complete, but can be easier to follow

Next, here is how the Mopar key/ ignition voltage works. One Ford/ GM, the coil ballast bypass is done at the solenoid. But Mopars do so in the key switch. You have IGN1, which is ONLY hot ONLY in the run position, and this voltage provides power to the instrument cluster/ warning lamps, and goes out through the firewall connector and provides power to the VR and ignition system, and in later years "a few other things."

BUT THAT GOES DEAD during start.

For starting, you MUST include the bypass wire, normally ground, which connects to the coil + side of the ballast, originally. That goes HOT during cranking. It acts just like the "start" contact, but is a separate contact/ circuit in the ignition switch to prevent backfeed
 
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Way more info is needed.

Photos, what exactly are you running.

Factory distributer?
Factory ignition module?
Factory style coil?
Ballast resister?
2 terminal or 4 terminal ballast?
 
VOLTAGE DROP!! V drop is a PROBLEM in these old girls. You need to chase it, measure it, learn how and why it is cause, etc

The functional path for the "ignition run" into the engine bay is:

From the big starter relay stud, FUSE LINK.........BIG RED ammeter wire to and through the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR....to the AMMETER....through and out the ammeter on the BIG BLACK......to the WELDED SPLICE.......branch off the SPLICE to feed the IGNITION SWITCH CONNECTOR......through the SWITCH and out on dark blue IGNITION RUN AT THE SWITCH CONNECTOR.......and to and through the BULKHEAD CONNECTOR......out into the engine bay, and split off to feed the VR and ballast power

Each of the capitalist items is a possible trouble spot.

You will probably have to pull the ignition switch out to measure it. "Chase" power UNDER LOAD with key in "run." Measure battery, measure "big red" into the bulkhead, and "big black" coming back out the bulkhead (ends up at alternator + stud) These should all be exactly the same with a LOAD on the system. If not the most probable causes are corrosion in the bulkhead connector, or terminal problems at the ammeter.

Now re-check coil+ and if it is low, go access the ignition switch, and probe the connector black, the switch pin under it, the dark blue at rear of connector, and switch pin under that. IF you are losing voltage in the switch, different readings will show this.
 
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67DartJeremy said:
Hi Everyone,
Working on my 67 Dart with a 360. It ran great when I bought it, but one day the Accel distributor (sat too tall) rubbed a hole in one of the plug wires up against the wiper motor and shorted itself out. The Accel module burned itself out, so I replaced it with a factory style electronic ignition that I purchased from EBay (Richard Erenburg’s EBay store).
The problem I have now is weak spark and the engine runs almost like it has a dead cylinder. Been going through YouTube diagnostic videos. The battery shows 12.35v. When I disconnected the module (4 pin), the coil only has 10v??? Shouldn’t this be 12v, same as the battery? Where am I losing voltage? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated.
Click to expand...
WHAT IS the module 4 pin? Power? coil NEG?
 
67DartJeremy said:
. The battery shows 12.35v. When I disconnected the module (4 pin), the coil only has 10v??? Shouldn’t this be 12v, same as the battery
Click to expand...
If you are measuring coil plus voltage at the coil and you have a ballast resister, a lower voltage at the coil is normal.
 
Thank you so much for the ideas. I’m going to spend some time on it this weekend and see what I find out. I’ll let you know what happens. Thanks again!
 
"Can't get my sparky up" Sounds more like a personal problem. lol
 
Never mind ... Saw the title, was gonna suggest a trip to the urologist! :lol:
 
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