clifftt
Well-Known Member
I received my original fuel sender reconditioned by Abbott Instruments in Portland. Wasn’t cheap, but after trying an aftermarket POS, I bit the bullet and it worked great!
Some months later, I started the car and noticed the fuel gauge pegged. Eventually, I found the wire leading to the fuel sending unit had insulation burnt where it contacted the exhaust pipe. Now, with the sender wire disconnected, fuel gauge reads below “E”. But with wire connected and ignition on, it pegs the needle past “F”.
I visually checked for any shorts of the sender wire thru the trunk floor and up the rocker panel, under the sill plate and everything looks fine. (NOTE: When this happened, I was running a SW temp gauge. I reconnected the factory temperature gauge with the factory sensor to check if the temp gauge works, but it does not.) The factory diagram shows the IVR is in the fuel gauge and current feeds the temp gauge which is why I suspect the gauge.
After spending a few hours on this forum and reading countless threads, I’m at the conclusion I need to pull the dash cluster and check out the fuel gauge. Am I moving in the right direction? And if found bad, is the gauge toasted, or is there a chance I can solve the problem by bypassing the IVR with RT-Engineering’s solid state IVR?
Some months later, I started the car and noticed the fuel gauge pegged. Eventually, I found the wire leading to the fuel sending unit had insulation burnt where it contacted the exhaust pipe. Now, with the sender wire disconnected, fuel gauge reads below “E”. But with wire connected and ignition on, it pegs the needle past “F”.
I visually checked for any shorts of the sender wire thru the trunk floor and up the rocker panel, under the sill plate and everything looks fine. (NOTE: When this happened, I was running a SW temp gauge. I reconnected the factory temperature gauge with the factory sensor to check if the temp gauge works, but it does not.) The factory diagram shows the IVR is in the fuel gauge and current feeds the temp gauge which is why I suspect the gauge.
After spending a few hours on this forum and reading countless threads, I’m at the conclusion I need to pull the dash cluster and check out the fuel gauge. Am I moving in the right direction? And if found bad, is the gauge toasted, or is there a chance I can solve the problem by bypassing the IVR with RT-Engineering’s solid state IVR?