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Want to know what tends to happen with a fuse or CB? People go out, replace fuse or push reset and continue on, meanwhile stuff still continues to melt in the car. Seen it too many times. Not saying people here will do that, just what tends to occur. I did a ton of FL replacements on off...

@Mattax Nice clean schematic update. Saved it, thanks Big improvement from my stick man art skills. :rofl:

Reminds me of the car we had that ran faster with 2 batteries in the trunk than one. That battery weight sure slowed it down.

Most if not all the insulated connectors use a butted seam. The good ones are brazed to make a complete circle retaining the wire. Places like waytek and terminal supply have the brazed connectors.

Don't use those insulated connectors. Use the non insulated and shrink tube them. Always use a toothed crimper on non insulated. This Klein 1005 is a great tool. https://www.kleintools.com/catalog/combination-cutting-tools/crimping-and-cutting-tool-connectors No solder required...

Nope. The two wire is the reverse light set up. one line is hot, the other goes to reverse lights with the switch completing the circuit. Three wire, outer two are reverse light, center is the auto trans safety switch. OP has a manual trans switch plug.

You best figure out why it is hot. Pull the cluster. I'll put money on the wires coming into the gauge are cooked. But, according to some fans of ammeters, they never have issues. It is 50 years old, so it may have never been touched since new.

If you want to be safer, maybe put a fuse in the circuit when testing.

Oh, I missed the putting two wires into one terminal. brain fog... LOL JMO, twist them together, use a 12ga terminal, then hit the tip of the wires with some solder to lock in place. @mopowers

waytek, terminal supply, NAPA should have those.

If you want wire that has tracers on it. Rhode Island Wire has stuff or can make it up for you. http://www.riwire.com/ Without tracers, some of the larger wire supply companies like del city, terminal supply or waytek to name a few.

Hey but you can count to 4, 8, 16 right. Bulkhead is likely to trouble spot. Pretty common. Look at a schematic and find the terminal. Pull the female terminal in the cabin and make sure it is still in good shape tension wise for holding the male terminal. Heat will cause them to loose grip.

my 2 cents and likely already covered by others in here. With the car in the no low condition Everything plugged in. Probe the output wire from dimmer switch for low beam, some are violet in color. Hot? Yes. Do the same thing at the engine side of bulkhead where that wire passes through...

The guy in that video should be more concerned with the battery positive lug and the wires going into it. That is some rough wiring. :) There is some info in that video that is not exactly correct. If you want to run a cable from alternator to battery, make sure it has protection in it.

i always suggest leaving the factory wire attached at alternator

Maybe the entire edge that the bellhousing contacts the engine?

Not a chance I'd run that stuff for starter operation, UNLESS it was to minimize weight in a car running a specific class. Stick with copper.

Awesome. Good to read you got it installed and everything went well. Light output looks good in the pictures. Let me know if I can help out with anything else. Rob

that doesn't help with an aftermarket harness in the car. Who's harness is in the car. Find out. Look at the fusebox for hints or writing on the wires.

not reading this thred here's what I would do. Make a jump wire. Unplug connector from dimmer. Headlight switch on, jump from green (feed) to violet, check results. DO same jumping green to red. Those are OEM colors. Go from there

Here is an updated schematic Why the fuse/breaker in the charge line? If you are using the CD, what purpose does the charge line protection provide? Master disconnect side, think along the lines of a river and smaller tributaries that drop off of it. The main line needs a large fuse feeding...

Is fuel dripping in the carb? Does it smell like fuel out tailpipes? 2" of vacuum, something is wrong with the gauge or port you have it hooked up too. The light not flashing all the time when cranking and I missed if it did it when running is bad.

XE274H with 18-20 initial timing should pull around 12in of vacuum at 800-850rpm. Carb? If a carter/ede, make sure the rods are staying down when idling. If they aren't put your fingers on top of them and lightly hold them down, see if it cleans up a but. That intake... UGH... they should...

Any accessories grabbing power at battery or starter relay post?

I make them using 1/0 cable. I still have some 2/0 cable laying around... overkill for your slanty. You measure the wires as they are now and I can make a positive cable, no problem.

Simple. Wire in the ford solenoid using the OEM starter trigger wire connection. The one that runs from starter relay to starter. Good sized ground (same size as starter cable) to chassis at rear if frame connected and another ground cable off engine/trans to frame rail. Run a heavy gauge...

Drag car with that camshaft, I'd lock it out. If you MUST have a curve, I'd go somewhere in the 22*-26 Initial and 10-16 mechanical advance depending on what the engine will tolerate and provide best MPH.. As long as the all in number is below the converter stall, you should be good to go...

Thanks for the rec Steve, I don't do any straight reproduction stuff. @4spdragtop

Talk about a dead short! Glad you found the issue. That is the wrong wire to pinch on a chrysler. Neat more door car. Enjoy it.

Shoot me a PM, I can get you set up. @Cam1399 Rob