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Good plan, but most connectors are coated with plastic and you can't see the seam. I have some solder wrapped around a nail that works great for wire. Problem is I'm running out and have no idea what it is.

I seem to recall the light around the ignition switch had some delay when you opened the door in my old 70 Barracuda. Other than that I am no help.

Thanks, I'll have to round up an assistant to do that test I did think of the neutral safety and tried messing with the shifter through the shifting range but nothing. I guess it could be the key switch too, I have a spare so I'll try that first. Hope it isn't that cause all my locks match...

Yeah, everything seems to work except the starter. I have power through the firewall, never heard of a relay going bad but that is what it seems to be.

Switched to series and it sounds even more better. :-) Then I tried to start the car and heard an electrical type pop. No power now from the key to the starter relay. I can bypass the relay and get it started so I guess the wire through the firewall is the culprit.

It sounds OK sitting in the garage with no outside noise influence. I will try the series method just to see if it is better still.

Just checked the box and the speakers are 4 ohm units, and my thinking is I have them wired parallel. In order to wire in series I would connect the two blacks from the speakers together and break the other wire one to each of the radios wires. Right?

The new speakers have different size blade connectors. Using that and the tracer stripes in the speaker wire, I am sure the speakers are wired the same to both sides. Here is a crude sketch of the way I wired them.

Thanks, I was just out there messing around with it and I think it was dust/dirt in the radio ground. Gave everything a snug and it started playing pretty decent.

Finally got the plastic kick panels made by 66Dvert and 6" kenwood speakers in my 66 Barracuda and the radio is not very loud and lots of static. Should the speakers be grounded? I ran two strand speaker wire to each speaker and spliced the speaker wires together connected to the speaker...

I interlace like trailbeast. Try as hard as I can to keep the splice diameter as small as possible.

make sure when you push the brake pedal that it actuates the switch. Had that happen before and nearly drove me to drinking.

After you get a new battery, disconnect it when you know you won't be starting the car for a while. I need to do that too, but I am a procrastinator and usually don't.

Sounds like the distributor is installed about 90 degrees off. You can get an engine to run no matter, you just have to get the wires rotated around to the right spot.

you seem cranky but right on.:-D

Yeah, what they^^^^ said. Find and fix the problem.

In general most people look for a way to use a relay not eliminate it.

I'm not sure it's factory equipment but it is the wire that goes(comes from) the starter and powers the rest of the electrical system. I just re read you original post and it sounds like you got bigger problem than just a fuse. Sounds like a dead short somewhere.

My 66 Cuda has a fuse on the firewall near the distributor. When that blows I get nothing but I never thought to check the horn.

My kid and his friends did that same thing once. Lucky I was standing there to jerk it back off. This was on a GM and the Alt wire that runs down to the starter had a fusible link down next to the starter that got hot but didn't fry.

How old are these radios? AM/FM should be a transistor type. I would tweak with that one first or better yet one that you know works to set up your bench station.

Yep the antenna needs to be grounded. Picture it installed in a vehicle, what is grounded there needs to be grounded on the bench.

Dies soon as you let go of the key? Ballast resistor or bad ignition switch.

Look for a fuse or fuseable link on the firewall near the distributor. That sucker blew on mine one day and it took me about three hours to figure it out.

I don't know what they used but it feels kinda waxy to me. I don't think it is dielectric or lithium.

I heard a small pop/poof and engine died. That sure sounds like a fusible link popped. I've had this happen before but I can't remember where the culprit wire was for sure. I'm thinking it was from the starter and the break was right near the starter.

You have back-up lights on a 64 Dart? My 64 Valiant, and 65 Cuda do not have back-up lights.

yep, 1056 backup and 1157 tail/stop Don't know what those 15xx bulbs are for.

I didn't see that one but found two others on ebay. Since I am an electrical anti-genius I figured the best way to see what was cooked would be to put the dash back in. The results are that the oil and temp gauges do not work anymore along with all the lights are burned out. Gas gauge still...

Thanks, Is that an auxillary connection point for the oil gauge? The gauge worked before but there was nothing connected to those two posts. I assume it was connected through the 3-pin plug above them.