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The Mopar part number is 2808267, just like the 10" drum brakes.

The firewall has two sides.....but I assume you mean the interior side. Sure, lube the rubber retainer, start the push rod into the piston, start the master cylinder mounting nuts, tighten them evenly as you draw it up against the engine side of the firewall, and then push the rod into the...

'66 and earlier models use them.

What year is your car? The '66 and older A-bodies have a spring around the push rod, but, I didn't think the later ones did. I always swapped out the push rods and seals out on the bench.....actually in my vice. I give it it's initial bleed there too.

The proper torque spec is more than enough to seat the stud.

Dana67Dart thinks yanking on the stud will damage it. I've pulled those studs into rear axle shafts and front hubs for 55 years now without an issue. When the rear axle is out of the housing, sure, I use a press as it's faster. I've done it both ways on a front. If I'm changing a drum and all 5...

If you properly lube those parts, they "pull" into the hub easily without distorting the stud or lug nut.

Press would be my first choice. Drawing them in with lug nuts and washers would be my second if a press isn't available. I suppose you could rig up something to use a vice, but, I've never tried that.

That link is for a 1/2" stud. Early A-bodies have 7 /16" studs.

Find a rusted out '73-6 A-body V8 parts car and swap everything over. Just a driveshaft shortening is the only extra expense.

Proportioning valve and related fittings/lines?

I believe it's from an F,M,J body.

If you need boosted brakes, I would recommend the '67-72 booster and master cylinder. The original Bendix booster with remote reservoir is a trouble prone setup and some parts are getting very hard to find, not to mention someone that knows how to rebuild one.

A rough idle indicates it might be a vacuum leak in the booster. Pull the vacuum source hose off the intake and plug the intake nipple. The idle should be good now. If so, you have a leak in the booster system somewhere. Probably the booster itself as those were trouble prone on the early A's...

I assume you're planning to rebuild it. I'd start by pulling it apart and hone the cylinder to see if it's rebuildable. If badly pitted and you just have to reuse it for some reason, have it stainless sleeved, rebuild it, and then use DOT 5 fluid from now on. If it's not badly pitted, soak in...

As 67Dart273 mentioned, remove the shoes and hardware, then re-assemble the drum/bearings on the spindle to see how it fits now. That will tell you whether it's brakes or bearings/seals that are the problem.

That's the part, but, the price....yikes! There's bound to be some good used ones out there. I used to have a big box of them. PM me if you can't find one locally and I'll take a look.

Make sure the self-adjusters are not frozen and are working properly. I would just push the cable to one side to see if it works the adjuster.

Another possibility is that the left side has a plugged or partially plugged/kinked hard line or hose. #5 above is a strong possibility too. Brake fade on the left side could certainly do it.

Free play is different than pedal travel. Free play is just the excess slop in the push rod to booster, and booster push rod to master cylinder piston. There are lots of things that affect the pedal travel. Adjustments, hydraulics, firewall flex, master cylinder and wheel cylinder piston...

As mentioned, with the engine off, take up any free play by using your hand to feel for any. You only want 1/8" of free play movement in the pedal. If you still have a low pedal, but, it's hard and the shoes adjustment is correct, there's a mismatch there somewhere. I'd be tempted to get rid of...

His self-adjusters and springs are later and a bit different than yours.

If the wheel cylinder piston were stuck out, or the e-brake was on, the top of the shoes wouldn't hit the anchor. It used to be that you could get brake shoes that needed to be arced to the drum diameter. They came with a bit more friction material. I haven't seen those in decades though, so...

Make sure the shoes are against the top anchor pin, and the adjuster ends are seated all the way in their respective slots in the shoe. If they are, all the other parts mentioned aren't going to change the outside diameter of the shoes. As Lefty mentioned, make sure the new adjuster is the same...

Assuming all the parts (especially the caliper bracket for the hose) is all '72, just order it for that year. That bracket changed early on from a multipoint fitting to a round fitting with a flat spot to lock it into the bracket. '68 was still the early style and by 1970 they started the newer...

There isn't a pedal assembly for the E-brake in 1972. That didn't start until 1976. '72 used a hand brake under the left side of the dash panel.

Some brands used a different numbering system though, so, it might be harder to cross them over to Timken or Bower/BCA.

The 8121 is for B, C, and E bodies with 11" drum brakes. The 6840 is for '66-72 A-body 10" drum and Disc.

Interesting since A-bodies never came with 11" brakes.

The OP said they were going with the 4 1/2" bolt pattern.