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Nope only a heat crossover and that gap around the port goes nowhere

Thanks Steve I’m a big block guy so I’m kinda dumb when it comes to small block numbers.

Not on the pan rail on a small block they are on the front of the block just below the left head

You would be wise to get a set of good roller lifters in that engine. Morel would be a good brand to locate. https://johncalliesinc.com/morel_products_product_view.php?cat=Lifters&make=Chry

Not that i don’t agree the silver in the oil is a tell tell sign. the flexplate and convertor spin as long as the engine is turning park or not.

The camshaft has some control over measured compression as well. some cams bleed off some of the compression depending on overlap.

Is this an auto trans car? if so i would for sure check the flexplate to convertor bolts to ensure they are tight and not rubbing.

If you pull the shafts you should be able to use a long ty-rap and check the passage through the head and into the block. Also at 20 degrees at a time you could easily miss the alignment of the galley.

Growing up as a kid my dad used tap water and I did too into my 20s before I knew better and I’ve never seen anything remotely close to that in a radiator. Maybe some calcium build up but not that Hell we even topped off batteries back then with tap water.

:lol:

that looks like two types of incompatible coolants were mixed

Edelbrock made both the small block and 69.5 year model and a few early 70’ big block factory six pack/six barrel intakes

No they don’t recommend any sealant to be applied to their gasket

I’ve reused/torqued the cometic head gaskets on my hemi 3 different times now they are still sealing fine Yes they have been ran also

Personally I would use that and not think twice about it.

Have you tried heat around the distributor opening?

:lol:

It shows the Lifters for it are $275 Dollars!!! :wtf: That seems expensive but… price some crane ultra pro rollers then the price don’t look so expensive :lol:

Superformance gaskets are the real deal look them up on the web. The owner Greg is a good guy give him a ring.

Yep you sure do! any self respecting mopar parts seller/hunter needs a white book Here’s the link White Books – Galen's Tag Service, LLC

Here’s one from from Galen’s website and yes I’m kicked back in the recliner:lol:

Have you been losing coolant up until you popped the core plug or any overheating and boiling in the radiator ? The radiator cap if working correctly should have dumped any pressure above 16 psi. Core plugs have been know to pop out for no other reason than failing.

I agree with the above do them one at a time.the drag on the bolt head will be more without the washers and ultimately your bolts are not clamping as tight with the torque value without the washers to reduce the drag.

First thing I would do is squirt a bit of oil in the cylinders and rotate by hand a few times.next is a must remove both valve covers and prime the oil system by hand with a drill and make sure you get oil up to all the rockers. You will need to slowly rotate the engine to line up the oil...

That’s the heater hose bracket

A wire loom tab

If it doesn’t leak oil it will be ok but it would haunt me the rest of my life:lol:

Yours is in backwards

Have you checked the alignment of all the pulleys?

that would be badass with the stroker in it. Even says they will deliver.