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*NEW* Hood Steel Focus RS style bonnet vents universal POWDER COATING | eBay

I stand corrected, and glad to see that. I was thinking "holy cow, WTF".....

And that is the other problem with this design. That cap is air-tight and even has an O-ring? Without some kind of vent hole, this unit will only allow a small amount of coolant in, before the pressure with the radiator becomes equal...at least I would think.

So.....that design makes it unable to replenish coolant back into the radiator full once it cools down. I wouldn't want that....

That's really interesting and almost amazing. Never thought of that but it does make sense. One thing I would add is that I'm a huge fan of engine oil coolers. They can pull out a lot of heat as well.

Check for this too.....

I'm glad you brought that up.......I'm thinking that bad seals and fresh air leaks from "down there" on both sides' vents can dilute the hot air blast from the heater with cold vent air......right on yo' feets. I also think that (at least partial) cardboard in front of the radiator would...

Agreed......I've run a 160 degree T-stat before and could barely feel any heat.

Sometimes, the heater hose nipples on the water pump, head, intake or wherever, will accumulate some corrosion on the inside, slowing down the coolant flow. You can change 'em out or get a rat-tail file in there and clean 'em out. Same goes for the heater core. On one of my other cars, my...

I would try buying a infrared thermometer and hit the top hose then the bottom hose......just to see how good that aluminum radiator is doing its job, and how hot that top hose really is. Also, when you say "boiling over", is it dribbling out coolant from the radiator's overflow hose or is it...

Seems like I remember hearing that companies that re-flash auto ECMs for more performance, recommend a cooler thermostat, probably because of the more aggressive advance curve. This might be considered a "crutch" but I think it may help, if only a little......and like was stated, only if the...

As was mentioned......most likely fuel percolation, then flooding. BUT, could also be ignition related. If mine, I would just do a voltage check on the "+" side of the coil while cranking, just to make sure it's getting bypassed boosted voltage.....full 12v. Also, check your point gap. If...

I was gonna say the same thing........you need more initial timing, then you can dial back your idle speed screw a bit.

Hey, way to go on the radiator install! Now that you're "on a roll"......got another job lined up for the Val?

No, it's not right. But I'm thinking maybe you saw it wrong....? Even if the water pump is spun backwards, it's still a centrifugal type pump and it "slings" the water outwards and into the block water jackets. Hmmmm.....I dunno.....I think I'd try to KEEP it that way! Cooling the heads...

I'm sure that it's easy to do it. It's either "looking for" a ground, or it's a 2-wire deal. I'll bet it's a single-wire setup, right?

Don't let the **** hit the.......aw, never mind :D My friend bought a complete fan system which was a lot of China components. His temp sensor was defective after only a few days. He went out and bought a quality thermo switch and all's well.

That's what I was thinking also.....

What do you guys think about these....factory air extractors that came on the 5.9 Jeep Cherokees? I think it could help the hot air flow out of the underhood area. I like the way they look.......and I'd bet they would help.

I agree with SG here......sounds like the radiator isn't quite up to the task, although 195~200 is nothing!! It's not even boiling temp for plain water, much less coolant. The only thing that would bother me is if you really taxed that cooling system, like say on a hot day on the freeway with...

I'm totally impressed!.....especially the fabbed up shroud, lowered core support and lengthened latch support! I'm a big fan of oil coolers too......have you considered running one? I had to use one on an A-100 pickup I had with a built 340 in it. When I'd see traffic coming to a standstill...

Yup, he's right....you'll be so glad you drilled that little hole. It'll allow all the air in the block to bubble up and out to the radiator, past that cold and closed thermostat. That air pocket in the block doesn't allow the hot water to contact the bottom of the t'stat and make it open...

Yes, I think the cold air will do okay. The only condensation I get on the inside glass is from me breathing after I took a sip of my coffee....lol.

I agree.....not a biggie. It's not even boiling temp yet, and that temperature is measured as it's leaving the engine, up @ the water elbow, right? I don't like anything over 200 and definitely 215 (mostly 'cuz it increases the likelihood of pinging) I go nuts when it just keeps creeping...

I always say.....either you're not getting air flow or you're not getting water flow. But that's after you determine that the car's REALLY overheating.....not a malfunctioning gauge or a bad radiator cap letting water puke out when it shouldn't be.....(poor cap seal or at the improper pressure...

I would say that if you're making progress, it may have been that the old thermostat was defective.......or at least restrictive junk. That thing should've been WIDE open before 180.....yet you mentioned the top hose wasn't that hot. I guess the true test will be when the OAT is 85 degrees or...

....I guess I'll jump in and beat a dead horse...:-D From what I know, the fan and shroud should be meaningless @ highway speed. You either don't have enough coolant flow, not enough air flow or not enough core area in that radiator for your hopped engine/trans combo.....which is what I...

Looks like you've got a lotta cubes there in that small block, and then the 3.91's too. Sounds like you're doing everything right, though. If it were mine, I'd probably throw an engine oil cooler on it as well and maybe a Dodge van (oversize) radiator. Unless you're going after the stone...