Fan controller took a ****, again!

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younggun2.0

younggun2.0

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Well, I am just about fed up with electric fan controllers. I built a duel electric fan set up for my big block dart. I ordered a derale duel electric high amp. fan controller. was not cheap. $137.95. Got the first one all wired up and the controller was defective right out of the box. the fans would not come on at any temp. the manual override feature worked intermittently. So I called and they sent me another free of charge. Got it all wired in and it worked great for about 190 miles. thought I had the cooling system done. Well yesterday i drove the car to work. 22 miles each way. Worked perfect all the way to work. Took it out on my lunch break and it worked great. Hop in the car to go home and about 2 miles down the road and im at 200*. i shut it down and took a look at it. everything looks fine but fans wont come on. the Manuel override function works but only drives one fan. I limped it home on the free way and kept it down under 190*. I called Derale again and they think the temp. sending unit is no good. FML. Now i will be taking it all back apart and testing the sending unit.
 
Do you have the fans running right off the controller? I wonder if running the controller to a couple of relays would help. I know you said it was a high amp unit.... the instructions for the dual fan controller 16789 say 35 Amp continuous per fan. What model fan are you using?
Did the temp sender come with the controller?
From the instructions for the 16789
The green wire is designed to work in two different configurations. When used, this will allow Electric Fan #1 to be turned on
regardless of the temperature of the thermostat as it simply overrides all other functions

Hope Derale makes it right.
 
i am using jegs brand universal electic fans. 14" and they only draw 9.8 amps ea. the unit worked killer for a week or so and then outta nowhere it took a **** last night. I am by no means taxing the system. I also have a designated power wire from the battery to the controller. it is 6ga. so it is getting plenty of juice.

I got the fan controller to limit all the clutter with relays and all that. the unit is essentially a duel relay with a thermo static switch.
 
Don't let the **** hit the.......aw, never mind :D

My friend bought a complete fan system which was a lot of China components. His temp sensor was defective after only a few days. He went out and bought a quality thermo switch and all's well.
 
cudavert said:
Don't let the **** hit the.......aw, never mind :D

My friend bought a complete fan system which was a lot of China components. His temp sensor was defective after only a few days. He went out and bought a quality thermo switch and all's well.
Click to expand...


I wonder...... are the temp sending units interchangeable? Id be down to buy a new high quality sending unit if thats all it took.
 
I'm sure that it's easy to do it. It's either "looking for" a ground, or it's a 2-wire deal. I'll bet it's a single-wire setup, right?
 
well turns out it the temperature probe that is no good. tech told me to cut the 2 wires going to the probe and connect them and the fans should come one. well they did. i got a new probe on the way.
 
younggun2.0 said:
well turns out it the temperature probe that is no good. tech told me to cut the 2 wires going to the probe and connect them and the fans should come one. well they did. i got a new probe on the way.
Click to expand...
what brand is this stuff? did u say it was chinese?
I`ll let u guys in on a little secret. white performance in kingsboro tenn. sells on ebay, they test almost all of the stuff they sell,and pick only the best parts to sell, and they back it w/ a lifetime gaurantee. when I built my 2 chevy hotrods I bought almost exclusively from them, for the parts they had , that I needed ( GREAT PEOPLE TO DEAL WITH)
granted they don`t have much mopar stuff, but I`ve found a few things w/ them, and I trust them more than anyone I`ve dealt w/.
elecric fans and such, I wouldn`t even check anyone elses prices.-----bob:blob::blob::blob::blob::blob:
 
I would never use junk like that. Use 2 weatherproof relays like the ones supplied a painless kit for instance. Use a grounding GM style sensor in the intake. No problems ever. Easy bypass in case the sensor fails.
 
I run a relay to power mine, even though it has a relay built into it.
I didn't like the fact that my controller was going to have to deal with the amps, so now it's just a light duty switch and the external relay takes the amps.
 
famous bob said:
what brand is this stuff? did u say it was chinese?
I`ll let u guys in on a little secret. white performance in kingsboro tenn. sells on ebay, they test almost all of the stuff they sell,and pick only the best parts to sell, and they back it w/ a lifetime gaurantee. when I built my 2 chevy hotrods I bought almost exclusively from them, for the parts they had , that I needed ( GREAT PEOPLE TO DEAL WITH)
granted they don`t have much mopar stuff, but I`ve found a few things w/ them, and I trust them more than anyone I`ve dealt w/.
elecric fans and such, I wouldn`t even check anyone elses prices.-----bob:blob::blob::blob::blob::blob:
Click to expand...


I thought i was getting quality stuff. Its made by Derale. Its American made. It is Derale part # 16789.
 
GMachineDartGT said:
I would never use junk like that. Use 2 weatherproof relays like the ones supplied a painless kit for instance. Use a grounding GM style sensor in the intake. No problems ever. Easy bypass in case the sensor fails.
Click to expand...


I was thinking the same thing but how do you know the on/off temps? The control box is adjustable so I guess it dont matter, just so long as the sender has 2 wire hook up?
 
TrailBeast said:
I run a relay to power mine, even though it has a relay built into it.
I didn't like the fact that my controller was going to have to deal with the amps, so now it's just a light duty switch and the external relay takes the amps.
Click to expand...

the problem with that is I have already mounted the control box. I have already drilled holes in the inner fender to mount the box and I have already spent countless hours running the wires thru a hidden conduit and so on and so forth. the control box was designed to work on its own. I should be able to get a set up that will work on its own. I will be pissed if i have to buy relays to run a control box that cost me $135. I have not given up on it yet. I did alot of reading online and these controllers in general have a good re-pore with the users.
 
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