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I saw $605.95 with free shipping on Ebay....those are so hard to find cheap and they go fast.

And just think about how lean the carb is set up to run! I might just go through the carb and check all the adjustments/float level to sooth my mind on that. But maybe the EGR is suspect too....

I figure that the EGR valve being overly active would actually help reduce the pinging. 130/135 seems fairly low on the compression. Is this an EFI motor?

These do seem tempting, but a few concerns about quality. I'd hate to see my car go up in flames, if, let's say the float split (sank) and the fuel started overflowing out the top of the carb and onto the exhaust manifold. I guess you could install a reputable rebuild kit into these...

I haven't, but on a different note, one of my buddies bought a mint '69 Cuda notchback from the original grandma owner and it had never been restored or painted. It was a slant 6/automatic on the column. The weird part was that it had the clutch Z-bar support bracket welded on! There were no...

Dude!!!......I dunno.....that is some foul grunge there. Crazy....

Wow.....beautiful find and very nice score!! Those pedal pads look very low mileage too. I love getting cars in this kind of original shape, not to mention it's a factory 4-speed. Does anyone know what type of gears were installed in these cars? I'm curious.

I always wanted to figure out a way to use one of these aluminum base plates, some U-bolts and sealer to install a Holley 2 barrel on a slant 6. Seems do-able......with a rotary file of course, to hog out the top a little bit.

I'll lay a dollar to a dime it's a carb issue. Sometimes, when coming to a stop, if your float level is set too high, it'll slosh a bit and flood it as it comes to a stop.

That's really a bitchin' car. I'd run the valves, give it a full tune-up and try some thicker oil......and try to keep the RPM's down. Maybe you could try some rubber umbrella seals on the valve stems.

I think that's probably blue smoke, plus you've got a decent variation of compression going on there. I'd say probably a rebuild or a re-ring is needed......but do a wet/dry compression test to see if it's valves.

I prefer cork with a light coat of silicone, then torqued down light to medium. Should be juuusst right with no leaks.

I agree with wjajr and trailbeast......it can fool you with a pulsing of the crankcase fumes. Excessive blow-by can start to pump oil up into your air cleaner. Also, might wanna check if your PCV valve is clogged up or stuck.

Exaaaactly! AND fully warmed up. A valve adjustment would even be better!

Hope you aren't pumping "yellow water".....

Nice!.....I bet that's responsive as heck!

Stop!!.....STOP!! You're making me embarrassed to be part of the human race. What's being questioned is your capabilities as far as just slapping on a turbo on an engine that was designed to be a grocery-getter. With the right controls and engine management, I believe the slant would've...

I wonder if the fuel flow to that carb "stopped" once it came on boost. :D Or reversed direction.....:D:D

So.....let me get this straight. The rod failed because it's "obvious" that it was cracked for a while and eventually failed and snapped. Although, you state that the rod was intact enough to be "ripped out of it". Which one is it? Oh, yeah I know.....those slant 6 parts are just so...

Hey, cool! So now can you hear that little 1 barrel sucking air when you punch it? SSSSSS.......CHAAWWWWWWWWWWW!!! BWAHAHAHAHAHAAHA!!

I think it may have more to do with the low primary resistance.....maybe too much load on the points.

I hate mine too, if that's any consolation. Car runs so crappy I'm lucky to make it back from a 1 mile test drive.

Nice, except that single exhaust and stock manifold. Gonna sound like a tornado coming out that pipe! Great idea, great interest in this setup though, that's for sure!! I know I do!

Probably the head gasket. When you crank it over, does it sound the same? I once had a VW that I overheated and after it cooled down, it sounded like I was cranking it with no spark plugs. Zero compression.

I've seen some pretty weird things go on when troubleshooting electrical......like getting an intermittent voltage supply, caused by just the engine torquing over when you take off at a green light!! The engine can move over just enough to wiggle a harness and give an slight interruption of...

I was leaning a bit more towards the intake gasket leaking (or maybe a small piece of it got blown out from a previous backfire)....or...if you have power brakes, maybe the power booster is sucking air. Having that many carbs on and still somewhat the same problem, sort of eliminates the carb...

I used to have one of these Buick turbo setups with the coolant-heated Quadra-bog intake......I think it would be PERFECT for a slant 6! From a 1979 Buick Regal. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=190779488164&fromMakeTrack=true&ssPageName=VIP:watchlink:top:en

Geez, it seems like it's got quite a bit working against it. Freeway gears, no kickdown, low compression, an oversize carb and a worn timing chain....not to mention lousy initial timing. I'd probably give it at least 12~15 degrees initial advance and cross my fingers. That's a small...

I hope they at least had 273 2-barrels in them, if not commandos.

This tells me that you ARE tapped in to a manifold vacuum source, which isn't right......right?? Stock 225's are ported vacuum advance, correct? At any rate, I ALWAYS had a better running slant 6 whenever I adjusted the valves, which is about every 4~6 months. I was using my Dart as a daily...