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So….. you had not enough lifter preload, so you put shims under the rocker shafts. Would that not raise the shafts and decrease the preload even more? Also, decking the heads would increase not decrease the preload. Am I missing something in your explanation?

Most stock and aftermarket distributors have waaaayyy too long of an advance curve, which means you dont have near enough initial timing resulting in a lazy low powered engine at low rpms.

Richie, not enough converter may be part of your problem, but listen to the advice on here about timing. Before you do anything you need to find out what the amount of mechanical advance and what your total timing is. You need a nice short advance curve which will allow more initial timing, and...

What about the rest of the pipe threads in the block, did you chase them too? There is no way that I would trust that. Not only due to the potential for leaks, but also the very real possibility that it could, with temperature and vibration, blow the sender right out..... on the highway or...

Are you sure that it is not your ECU on its way out? I have had Chrysler ECUs fail in exactly this manner. If you have some spare parts available you are best to do some troubleshooting before throwing new parts at it.

Buy a prius?

Hey, I cleared it out, thanks!

Are the tachs and cables still available?

Hey, thanks! Is this still available new, or desirable?

So I need some help ID'ing this distributor. It cam with the '50 Dodge that I just bought. It is clearly a small block tach drive distributor (I compared the shaft length to a know small block distributor). I will be selling it, but this is not a for sale thread. I want to gather any info that...

If it was a stockish cam and valve springs, the lifters were low mileage and still convex on the bottom and I was on a really tight budget I might consider it. Anything high lift and or with stiff valve springs I would not.

You might also want to check out what is in the oil pan and gas tank. Might be more surprises.

Were they in all cylinders? That is certainly weird. I agree on the comment about pissing someone off. Were you running / driving it with open headers or no exhaust? Do you have any anal neighbors? Can you file an insurance claim?

Tell Mark that Dave from Alpine sent you.

There is so much more to consider..... gear ratio, auto/ standard, torque converter specs, the list goes on.in the big picture, a single plane is just fine in an a body unless other things hold it back.

Yep, Mark knows his stuff, and isnt all about spending your money unnecessarily. It is worth a call to chat with Mark.

Richie, are you using Mark at pendozi machine? He is good at what he does and has done many engines for my brother and I. I recommend him and would at least chat with him, do some comparison shopping.

That will also be a dual plane intake Richie, and other than the weight of the cast iron is very comparable performance wise to a lot of the older aftermarket dual plane aluminum intakes.

A bodies are light enough that you can get away with a single plane. If you have a high stall torque converter and lower rear end ratio even more so. I ran one on my 408 dart, both with an auto (2800 converter) and a 4 speed with 3:55 gears. It worked great.

When deciding about the cam, look at the bottom of the old lifters. They should all be convex when you hold a straight edge across them. If they are flat or dished (concave) throw the cam out.

What do the casting numbers say? One side of the block has the date of casting, the other has the displacement. Casting numbers are raised and are cast into the block, you have shown the stamped numbers.

If you want to chat about my 55 Dodge build let me know. I will give you the details on mine. Currently I have a 440 in the car, but have always longed for a low deck stroker. Perhaps my next build, LOL. I have seen a few of these cars with big blocks and small blocks, even one (god forbid) with...

I think early sb's didn't use them but later ones did. I am sure someone will correct me. Either way it doesnt seem to make much of a difference if you leave the slinger out.

Rockauto. https://www.rockauto.com/en/catalog/dodge,1974,d100+pickup,5.2l+318cid+v8,1083709,transmission-manual,flywheel,5348 160 CDN is like 120 USD. It is brand new. Use it and then sell it.... hell I might even be interested, or keep it with your bell for future use.

This depends, what bellhousing are you using for your run stand? You will also need longer bolts as the flywheels use longer bolts than flexplates do.

Is the flywheel not a different diameter than the torque converter ring gear, so you will need the corresponding bellhousing as well to correctly position the starter?

You also need shorter pushrods, correct valve springs to match the cam, check your piston to valve clearance, adjustable rockers and you may have to clearance the push rod pockets in the heads as the pushrod geometry changes.

Looks good from here. Take the lifters out one at a time and make sure the lifters are convex on the bottom. If they are at all concave they are done.

The 340 intake has larger ports than the 318 heads and intake, but it will work just fine as the others have said. I have done this before myself, you will like it!

Any parts supplier can bring the better felpro in for you and yes, it does work better, especially when the alignment isn't perfect. As others have said you probably have bigger issues, possibly with the Chinese manifold.