Search results for query: *

I believe that it has been modified. The drivers side mount on the k frame has been cut short and had the hole drilled, they are usually slotted with a lip, and the passenger side mount looks offset farther to the outside than normal? I think it is homemade, what it fits ?????

It has a washer welded on the front of it.

These A bodies are hard to get enough caster, which is why the offset bushings are made. At home, if all is stock, i do the following. #1, dial in the maximum amount of caster, this is one adjuster turned all the way one way, and the other all the way the opposite. #2, you will now have wacked...

I have always put antiseeze on k frame bolts, then check their torque a time or two after the car has been driven. I would not use loctite, the last thing you want is to tear one of the nuts loose inside the frame rail if you ever try to remove the bolts.

Possibly the 75 had the LH thread end out board and the 68 had the RH thread outboard, or vice versa? I have done this swap before and I don't recall any difference in tie rod ends.

The angles, in relation to the flat ground aren't important. What is important is that the crankshaft centerline angle is equal to the differential pinion centerline. On a leaf spring car the pinion can point down a few degrees because, under power, it twists up. As long as the two centerlines...

As 72blunblu said. It is along the same lines as power brakes in an A body. They honestly arent required, add weight and crowd the engine compartment.

It is very possible that, at some point over the years, parts have been swapped. I agree, you need to personally check before doing a deal.

If it has front drums it will be small bolt pattern and small diff. Chances are that it is front disc, which would mean large bolt pattern and 8 1/4.

Hey waggin. The one in the background of this ..... Waggins car for sale

Wow, talk about reviving the dead..., this thread is from 2011! And yes, why are ypu selling the wagon, and what about the awb car in the background, is it for sale?

My 2 cents... swap over the k and everything. Buy a schumacher 6 to small block conversion kit. You will then have spool mounts which are more desirable (again IMO). I would also use the later spool trans mount. Keep the complete rear drum assemblies off the 76 back plates and all. They will...

Check it to ensure both weld yokes in the shaft are aligned..

Only under acceleration he stated, which I take to mean in gear, in motion and accelerating.

Could also be the weld yokes on the driveshaft are not aligned. Both u joints need to be in perfect alignment or it tries to twist the shaft out when it rotates under load resulting in a vibration.

Transmission output bushing worn?

And get rid of the air shocks...... they are a bandaid for bad springs, cause horrible handling and support the vehicle weight on the shock mount not the spring mounts on the frame where it was designed to be. They can cause cracking and damage to the shock mounts. I agree, the squeaking is...

It is common with stock parts to not be able to achieve enough positive caster in 67-76 A bodies. The fix is to use the offset upper control arm bushings. I am not an alignment expert but it does sound like you have too much toe in.

Right..... I was thinking farther back for oil pump clearance but agree with you.

That lower k frame might in fact be a 67 big block piece? If so it may have some value. Looks like borh mounts are in different locations. It is not a 6 cyl piece.

Where is it getting closer and curther from the fender? At the top, front or back of the tire? Pretty hard to tell the issue without more info. Could be bad lower control arm bushing, upper control arm bushing, strut rod bushing, idler arm, badly worn or broken k frame pivot holes, wheel...

This part....

Steering box issue. There have been articles on this in the past. From what I remember there is some adjustment in the housing on top kof the box that the lines hook to. You have to loosen the bolts that hold it to the box and tap it slightly one way or the other to center it.....then tighten...

True! Bench wise and some soap and water or wd 40, or take them to a shop with a predd and have them put in.

This.....

They also lead to some real funky handling and crappy launches.

Air shocksbare bad, old school and should not be used. They are a band aid at best. They end up supporting the vehicle weight on the upper and lower shock mounts which are not intended for this. Just do it the right way and have your leaf springs rebuilt and re arched, or replace them. And yes...

Sorry....I read that wrong. You should probably consider upgrading to the 73 and up K frame. It has a much better idler arm mount, and IMO the superior spool mount engine mounts.

You need to buy a 73 and up idler and pirman arm. The idler is a far superior design to the one year only 67 arm. The 73 and up arms enter the center link from the opposite side and are needed with your 73 and up center link.

Check this out, good info here. http://www.bigblockdart.com/techpages/connectors.shtml